CB77 305 Sprung a LeakMan, I wish I could. Thanks for offering Davo, I have to work on Saturday so I'm not available. Matter of fact, after Memorial Day I don't have a day off for a couple weeks. OT buys motorcycles, hah. Let me know if your plans change and you're down there any other time over the weekend and I'll stop by. Last night I bought the same rotor puller you referenced in an old thread, the motion pro one, and I bought a set of seals from retrobikes on ebay. I'll need to do a little more research poking around on the forums and I'll probably feel comfortable enough giving it a shot on my own.
I have to caution you. If you're not experienced in mechanical repairs you'd be well-served to have someone with you who is. While this repair is not difficult, there are a few tricky things to overcome or you'll be doing it again shortly.
1. Removing the stator requires caution - I would disconnect its 3 wires and the neutral switch wire (that is grouped with the stator wires) AND remove the neutral switch and pull the stator and nuetral switch all completely out of the bike and set them aside. 2. Removing the rotor may result in the guts of the starter clutch falling out. If so, it takes some tinkering to get it back together - sometimes the springs and cups are damaged - if so, HONDA still sells them. Get new guts before you put it back together. 3. Remove the sharp edges from the case halves with an exacto knife and smooth them with emory cloth before you try and jam the new seal in there or it will end up looking like the pic I posted - ruined - and you waiting for a new seal. 4. When removing the sharp edges, cover the crank bearing with a rag or other similar material to prevent any shavings from getting in there as you work. Metal shavings and bearings hate each other. 5. Clean the case where the crank seal will go with brake cleaner and use 3M weatherstrip adhesive around the perimeter of the new seal to facilitate its installation, and retention once in. 6. Make sure the new seal is completely seated and countersunk to the case (about 1mm) before reassembly. If not, the starter clutch sprocket will bind against it and not spin freely when you tighten the 10mm bolt holding the sprocket rentention bracket down. 7. Wrap a loop or two of electrical tape around the end of the crank to prevent damaging the starter sprocket seal when sliding the sprocket onto the assembly. 8. Installing the rotor can be a tad tricky because you have to do two things at once; push the starter sprocket dogs back into their houses while at the same time getting the rotor to fit over the keyway and onto the crank. Line the keyway slot in the rotor about 1.5 hours counter-clockwise of the keyway and spin the rotor clockwise to push in the dogs and line up the keyway to the slot. Always lube the crank seal's inner surface with a little engine oil before you try and slide the starter sprocket rotor back on. 9. And make sure the rotor is sliding back onto the crank without binding. If not, you risk f'ing up the rotor or keyway. You shouldn't have to wail away at the crank bolt too hard to get the rotor to seat. May the Schwartz be with you.
Last edited by rzgkane on Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:53 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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