DONZIE wrote:That's what I thought. I was just thinking of those thin flat washers with a neoprene gasket bonded to them like used on a metal building screw. Their are some about 3/4" od or so.
Cure for oil leaks from head?
I don't really think that's gonna solve it -- the problem (I believe) is coming from inside, and any kind of washer like that is only a band-aid. If I understand it correctly, it's kinda like this: make a fist with one hand -- that's the internal cast iron 'skull'. Then place your other hand over top of it -- that's the outer part of the head. So imagine that those two pieces have separated enough to allow oil to seep in between them, and eventually make its way up to that seam where the spark plug is. That's what's going on (I think!). Maybe as a result of their differing materials (between the inner and the outer), and the different temperatures at which they would respectively expand or contract? Don't really think any kind of washer is going to help - but just my (non-mechanic) opinion. If the leak is coming from the gap that sometimes opens up between the skull and the head, no amount or shape of washer will fix it.
If one was to machine that boss slightly to take a long reach plug and design a spacer to cover the area where the two meet, that might be possible to seal it or to slow things down. if that "spacer" had an O ring in the lower face, it might be a plausible fix. Spot face the head where the two meet. Machine a spacer, with OD to mach the spot machined head and ID large enough to clear the threads Machine an O ring groove close to the OD on the lower surface Thickness of spacers is 1/4" plus whatever was machined off the plug washer face Double check depth of plug into chamber and use plug indexing washers if required. Use 3/4" reach plugs and Never make the mistake of using them in a stock head. Enjoy a nice clean motor ( with any luck)
All that and a perfectly good head with a valve job can cost no more than $190.00 plus mail. .?????. ........lm
Dowty (or 'Doughty') washers. Very common in hydraulics; and very reliable. The metal part -- there purely to prevent the plasticised rubber part from oozing and to absorb the nut's compression force -- has no real sealing ability though, as it's passivated (or cad-plated) steel and, therefore, will not deform like an aluminium or a copper washer. LM, I agree completely. I wasn't recommending going down that road, just working through the likely steps to show what a PIA it would be to do it right. With a bad leaker, it's better to replace it. Vince
I do have those guides and have found tons of good info in there. My head wasn't loosing enough oil to be concerned about running low on capacity. Many tracks now require belly pans for oil containment in the event of a failure and check bikes for oil/fuel/broken or dangling things when entering or exiting the pits. This head would have caused my tech sticker to get pulled at some places, hence the swapping. bfd
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