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NEWBIE ENGINE SEIZED

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STEVEUK
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Joined: Sun Feb 12, 2012 8:48 am

NEWBIE ENGINE SEIZED

Post by STEVEUK » Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:00 am

Hi all, just brought a 68 cb77 but engine seized, is there a way of getting the cylinder head off easy, have took the top cover off to expose the top of the cam chain and there seems to be a thin sheet of metal across of the cylinder head just a cut out in the centre so you can see the chain, can this be removed, a have also removed the cam chain tensioner, any help anyone, not yet found a good manual.

steve

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davomoto
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Post by davomoto » Sun Feb 12, 2012 10:45 am

Yes you can remove the aluminum plate. There is another gasket underneath it. At this point, you need to locate the master link for the cam chain, and remove it. If you can't see the link at the top, try looking in the tensioner hole, and / or the oil pump hole. Since you can't turn the engine over, you'll have to break the chain if you are unable to locate the master link. There are 2-10mm head nuts, one by each spark plug. Remove those, and the cam chain, and the head is ready to remove.

Davo

fasbeck
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Location: United States

Engine Seized

Post by fasbeck » Thu Mar 29, 2012 4:16 pm

Guys, I am new here and just started to work on a 1967 305 Scrambler my dad has had stored away for awhile. The first issue we ran across is that the engine is seized. Oil looks good, but there was rust on top of the pistons so we purchased a product called Engine Release from http://www.seized-engine.com/. In their instructions it mentions using an impact wrench on the pinion gear; however, I don't see that on the 305, there is any way to put a bolt on the pinion gear side (left side) of the crank shaft. There is a bolt on the right, for the rotor, but I am apprehensive about using it. Can anyone suggest a location to try to free up the engine per their instructions without tearing the entire engine apart? Thanks.

mike in idaho
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Location: orofino, idaho

Post by mike in idaho » Thu Mar 29, 2012 4:47 pm

If you can't reach the master link you can pull the camshafts out of the center sprocket. Pull out the valve adjuster screws for more clearance, pull the end plates off the cylinder head and loosen the big nut on the top sprocket. Use a brass drift and a hammer to work the camshfts outwards until the sprocket is free. Go slowly so you don't break any parts. With the top sprocket loose there will be enough slack in the chain for you to work the master link around to the top.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth

fasbeck
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Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Mar 29, 2012 4:09 pm
Location: United States

Engine Seized

Post by fasbeck » Mon Apr 02, 2012 9:34 am

Thank you for the reply, I will give that a try.

mike in idaho
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Posts: 411
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:18 pm
Location: orofino, idaho

Post by mike in idaho » Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:23 am

A 50/50 mix of acetone and atf is the best thing I have found for loosening rusted parts. A little heat will help the process along. You can try and turn the engine with a wrench on the alternator bolt(no air tools) of course it will likely break if you overdo it. After the oil soaks in the cylinder for a while pull the alternator stator off the right side and you can put an oil filter wrench on the od of the rotor to rock the crankshaft back and forth.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth

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