'65 305 Stator Removal?

tkekfs · Post by **tkekfs** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:11 pm

Hi,

I have read the previous posts on rotor removal and am still confused. On the engine I have you cannot split the case halves with the rotor attached to the crankshaft (the case halves hang up on the inside of the gear behind the rotor). I understand the trick about using the axle shaft to thread into the inside of the rotor and that works for my bike. What I don't understand is how this actually comes apart. Do I hold the crankshaft still and turn off the whole magnet portion of the stator or do I screw out the center of this piece and hold the stator still with channel locks? Any explanation of how these pieces interact would be great (pictures are even better) the manuals that I have don't really shed any light on the subject. By the way I have removed every other component from the outside of the case halves except for the pistons which I also cannot figure out how to remove.

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide,
Kevin.

Hahnda · Post by **Hahnda** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 4:16 pm

I just removed mine last night. :D Screw the rear axle in and tighten it the best you can with a rod or stout screwdriver in the axle hole. Then give it a couple hard whacks with a rubber or plastic mallet on the rod or screwdriver to tighten it even more. Mine popped right off. Its a taper fit. Screwing the axle in pulls the rotor off the shaft. It is not threaded on. Putting channel locks on it might screw up your rotor a bit. Works best if you still have your upper end on to give it some resistance to the mallet whacks.

Kevin

Hahnda · Post by **Hahnda** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 4:18 pm

Oh the piston, remove the clips from the grooves and remove the pins. Mine needed some light taps from a tapered punch and plastic mallet to get them started. After that they slid right out. If you have to tap the pins make sure you hold the piston as steady as possible to prevent it from putting any stress on the lower end bearing.

tkekfs · Post by **tkekfs** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:21 am

Thanks for the tips they are great. The rotor came right off, I didn't even need to tap it with a hammer, just a little elbow grease. That is a really great tip. Since I had my top end already off I used a socket wrench (with special socket I made) on the primary chain nut on the other end of the crankshaft to hold it still. Luckily they thread in opposite directions.

Did you have a hard time removing the gear (I believe it is a starter gear) that sits behind the rotor? Mine seems to hang up on the drif(sp?) key that aligns the rotor. Does this gear also have a notch for this key or is it just crammed on there?

Thanks

Hahnda · Post by **Hahnda** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:27 am

My starter gear slipped right off without a problem. You need to take the drift key out. A small screwdriver and prying in the groove will make it pop right out. Then you can replace the seals on the end of the crank and the seal in the starter gear.

tkekfs · Post by **tkekfs** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:22 am

Is there any way you could send me a picture? The drift key as I understand it is the small rectangular metal piece protruding from the crankshaft at the tapered end. Is that right? My "drift key" as I have described it seems to be non-removable (I could be wrong) and there really isn't a groove around it.

my email is tkekfs@yahoo.com if you have a picture you can send.
Any is really appreciated as I am quite stuck.

Hahnda · Post by **Hahnda** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:31 am

I don't have a picture to post but could possibly take one tonite. That key does come out. Take a large dull screwdriver or a brass drift if you have on and tap a few time on the front of it. It should then reveal the groove that it sits in. Then take a screwdriver that fits in the slot and gently pry up, the key will come right out. Here I found a picture of a woodruff key.

Also when you go to put the rotor back in you should take a look at the starter pawls in the back of the rotor. I was just cleaning up mine last night and 2 out of the 3 the springs were stuck. You'll know what I'm talking about after you get it apart. Also when you go to put the rotor back on the shaft you have to rotate the starter sprocket to make sure you get the pawls past the lip on the sprocket. All of this might not make sense now but it will later.