Almost ready to ride...oh darn - blown head gasket??

[dux66]

After sucessfully running the engine once after 5-10 mins. an oil leak was discovered at the right side oil seal at the clutch lifter rod. After replacing seal (part# 912052590000), re-ran engine to test solid state rectifier (Oregon Motorcycles R42A2) noticed engine seemed tight, warmed up fast and now there is a leaking head gasket. The oil appears to be leaking out of the gasket under exhaust ports however the clutch lifter rod leak is now fixed. Any suggestions, help, comments, etc. are greatly appreciated as we are in the garage running low on beer.

P.S. Does anyone know the correct output voltage on the AC generator wires? I have 6v on brown and yellow and 8v on purple. I read 30v leaving rectifier.

[dux66]

Here it is.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Check on AC volts rather than DC volts.
You did install the rubber "O" rings at the front corners?!. ............lm

After sucessfully running the engine once after 5-10 mins. an oil leak was discovered at the right side oil seal at the clutch lifter rod. After replacing seal (part# 912052590000), re-ran engine to test solid state rectifier (Oregon Motorcycles R42A2) noticed engine seemed tight, warmed up fast and now there is a leaking head gasket. The oil appears to be leaking out of the gasket under exhaust ports however the clutch lifter rod leak is now fixed. Any suggestions, help, comments, etc. are greatly appreciated as we are in the garage running low on beer.

P.S. Does anyone know the correct output voltage on the AC generator wires? I have 6v on brown and yellow and 8v on purple. I read 30v leaving rectifier.

[dux66]

Thanks for the reply LM
We are reading 30 volts DC out of the soild state rectifier, Its a 42 amp soild state from oragon motorcycle for a cb77.
I know this sounds very high but trust me I am reading the meter right.

Does any one know the proper voltage on the yellow, purple, brown wire off the stator??

The only oil seal that was replaced was the seal around the clutch lifter rod. I now can only turn the motor over by a socket at the stator nut, watching both pistons move and vavles open and close properly But the bike now seems to be frozen at the kick start. This 305 was running and ideling just fine until this last little seal change, pistions do feel sticky turning over by hand ( even when bike has sat and engine is cold) the bike is almost impossiable to kick over at the kick start.
I do not see any connection with the clutch rod lifter seal but it was the only change made to a well running 305.

Any ideas would be helpfull since my next step seems to be pulling the engine

Thanks for the help

[davomoto]

Try torquing head bolts down to slow/stop oil leak. If you cahnged the clutch lifter seal, you must have removed the kicker cover? You must wind up, turn the kick lever forwar, the kick return spring. Holding the kick lever forward, slide the cover on, lining up kick splines. Hope this helps.

davomoto