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1964 Honda Dream CA78 Rebuild-storation

Want to keep a Restoration Log? Post it here! You can include photos. Suggested format: One Restoration per Thread; then keep adding your updates to the same thread...
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Bob750
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Location: Long Beach, CA

Post by Bob750 » Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:24 pm

Sara,

In the end, all experience is good experience. Either for the enjoyment or the lessons learned.

But yeah, "today" this leak is pissing me off. "Tomorrow" though, I'll look back on it, pleased with my new knowledge that I can forever impart to others--that all the stuff in the other posts is true: USE O.E.M. GASKETS WHEREVER YOU CAN!! :-)

-Bob
Mine: '74 CB750 K4 -- Hers: '64 CA78
Had: '75 CB550 K, '79 CT90

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Bob750
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Location: Long Beach, CA

Throttle Cable Length

Post by Bob750 » Thu Feb 06, 2014 3:22 pm

Okay, I removed my cable, laid it out on my lift, clipped it to the edge to keep it straight, pulled the cable out from the carb end making sure no slack was present at the adjuster, as in 48's photos, and laid the tape measure beside it.

In these first images you can see that in 48's photo he has 2 3/8" of cable between the terminator and the ferrule (the length of the terminator is irrelevant.) And in my photo, I have 1/8 less free cable showing.
Image
Image

In the next set we see the center section for adjusting... Note that the ferrule on the right on my photo protrudes a little more out of the adjuster than on 48's. This is not slack; that's as far into the adjuster the ferrule will go. Also not that the lock nut on 48's adjuster is a little thinner than the one on mine. So lets say that I'm losing about a 1/6th to an 1/8th of cable length here.
Image
Image

Moving to the handlebar end of the cable, we see the end of 48's ferrule at 37 1/8". Mine is at just over 37 1/4". If his jacket starts at 2 5/8" and finishes at 37 1/8 his jacket is 34.5". Mine starts at 2 3/8 and finishes at 37 1/4+", so my jacket is 34.875"or 0.375" longer. Add the 1/8 less visible cable at the carb end, and the 1/16 to 1/8 loss at the adjuster and my cable is effectively more than full half-inch shorter!
Image
Image

In a previous post I remember saying that I needed 1 to 1.5 cm to make it work. Sure enough .5 inches is 1.27 cm. Essentially the cable is okay until I need to insert it into the apparatus at the throttle grip, where too much cable gets used up in order to have it pass through the holder and then into the "hinge."

I'm a little frustrated that I spent $22 plus shipping on this cable back in October of 2012 and only now discovering that it's not right. I don't feel like bothering with getting it returned. So since this cable is useless as it is, I will now try to modify it. Maybe later I'll buy an NOS one, or sooner if I can't make this one work.

QUALITY CONTROL, PEOPLE!

that is all.
Mine: '74 CB750 K4 -- Hers: '64 CA78
Had: '75 CB550 K, '79 CT90

48lesco
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Location: Olmsted Twp, Ohio

Post by 48lesco » Thu Feb 06, 2014 4:05 pm

Bob - I see we have the same taste in tape measures... The only thing that really matters is the difference in length between the cable and conduit in picture 1. Your cable is about 1/4" shorter than the OEM in that respect. Like you mentioned in pic 2, the conduit doesn't seem to be into the adjuster fully. That said, you shouldn't be that far off at the carb. Did you try routing it around to the left side and (maybe stupid question but...) was the ferrule fully seated in the slide and the conduit fully seated in the carb top? If you got that from retrobikes, Terry would gladly make it right if it doesn't work out.
-48

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Bob750
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Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:41 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Post by Bob750 » Thu Feb 06, 2014 9:09 pm

Okay, I modified my throttle cable and it works great now. I removed about the length of a ferrule from the handlebar end of the conduit, in case it got ugly, so no one will ever see it without taking off the throttle. It turned out pretty tidy though anyway. I also routed it properly through the left side. Thanks for the help 48lesco!

BTW, that ferrule you're talking about was in all the way. It was a tad cockeyed, but even when held straight, it protruded more than the one at the other end of the adjuster.

Now I just have to tend to my leaks! With parts from G-Man on the way, and my torque wrench, I hope to have it all sorted soon! (But... hold aside one of those gaskets will you? --in case tightening doesn't do it? :-)

Cheers!
Mine: '74 CB750 K4 -- Hers: '64 CA78
Had: '75 CB550 K, '79 CT90

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sarals
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Location: Monterey Peninsula, California

Post by sarals » Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:51 pm

Bob - be careful torquing those front corner studs. I only went to 18 ft/lbs on mine because they felt like they were winding up, and I didn't want to risk breaking them.
1965 CB77 305 Super Hawk
1989 NT650 Hawk GT
1981 Yamaha XJ550 Seca

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Bob750
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Posts: 233
Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:41 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Post by Bob750 » Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:33 am

Copy that, Sara!

Since we're getting serious here about torque, is that a wet or dry torque you used? I imagine no lube on the threads?


And... what's the pool up to? Anyone out there betting on me breaking a stud? ;-D

sarals wrote:Bob - be careful torquing those front corner studs. I only went to 18 ft/lbs on mine because they felt like they were winding up, and I didn't want to risk breaking them.
Mine: '74 CB750 K4 -- Hers: '64 CA78
Had: '75 CB550 K, '79 CT90

48lesco
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Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:45 pm
Location: Olmsted Twp, Ohio

Post by 48lesco » Fri Feb 07, 2014 9:59 am

Shop manual says:

1.9-2.3 m-kg
13.7-16.6 ft-lb
165-200 in-lb
All 8 equal

Lube the threads. This minimizes twisting force on the studs which will break them, and maximizes the clamping force. Over 200 in-lb you're on your own...

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