CL77 project
At a period in time HONDA changed many items on the CL77.
1039331 is the bike this part was added. So anything after will have this design. 1043098 the tail light was changed. 1047093 the buddy pegs were changed. Tank came with a seam at the middle front to rear. 1043097 When I see any of these parts I refer to them as 67 issue as we know the numbers but not the actual year/month of change. As for your bike you don't have but one of these items and you have a 66 title so that's what you have. Over the years the CL77 was issued many parts were changed and not many know what all of them are and as a rule shouldn't get excited. In the case of the part you question it isn't just a matter of changing that part but the cylinder assembly would need to be changed also. Use what you have. BTW the parts book won't give this information as that book was issued in 66 so the fiche is where you will find the numbers for the parts changes late in the issue. .........lm
Update on the rebuild. Everything is coming apart nicely. The engine is ready to come out of the frame and be opened up. No stripped or broken bolts, parts are in good shape and it looks like I'll need just a few parts the mae the bike complete. I did hit the first stopper though. The fork seals need to be replaced and to do that all the rings and valves at the bottom of the tube have to come off first. Because of the moisture (water) that had settled in the bottom of the lower leg, the piston has rusted (welded) itself the the bottom of the tube. Has anyone had to go through this problem? Is there a way to free the piston without damaging the parts? Also some of the chrome has flaked off one of the tubes leaving pits in the surface. Is there a way to buff out the rough edges to make the tube smooth and usable again or should I consider getting it re-chromed? Thanks.
  OK. After much thinking over the past few days I finally came up with a solution to getting the pistons off the fork tubes. And I was correct....the pistons were stuck on because of moisture. Not so much because of rust but a white calcium type deposit that had gotten in there.
I cut two 2 inch pieces of angle steel, filed off all the rough edges and attached them to the tube just above the piston with a hose clamp. Then I just tap, tap....turn tap, tap the other side until the piston came off. There were a couple of small scratches as a result of the procedure but nothing that wasn't taken care of with 400 grit. CAUTION: When you start, put the angle iron and hose clamp on loose....just enough to hold it in place. There is a snap ring just inside the top of the piston (hidden in the chamfer). As it begins to move down, the irons will ride over the snap ring and woun't bind. Once you have access, move the snap ring up and out of the way. Tighten the hose clamp and continue. CAUTION: I used heat at first and it didn't do any good. In fact the heat might have distorted the piston slightly. I was able to get it to fit properly with the 400 grit. There were a few nicks in the top of the piston from the irons but that was taken care of with a dremel. I post this for others that might have this problem dealing with a very old, unserviced fork. As always, YMMV. Cheers.  
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