The Superhawk from hell...
There are probably index marks on the two gears in the cover, if you didn't dis-assemble it you should be good to go. Hold the shift lever forward, to preload the return spring, as you install the cover. If the kickstart arm is in the wrong place, pull the cover back off and move to a different spline on the shaft.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160 '66 CL160 '66 CL77 '78 XS650 '79 GL1000 '69 T100R '68 TR6 '69 T120 '72 750 Commando my company car is a Kenworth
Ya will see "dots" and "O's" on the mating gears.
Turn the KS shaft clockwise to stop. Move KS arm forward until one of those sets of marks align and install the cover. ........lm
Engine removal and spring repair.
Unhooked all the usual items, almost forgot the tach cable.  Picture 001 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Then strapped the engine to the lift, and just very, very slowly lowered it. Put some pads and tarps in front in case it tried to roll over on my fender.  Picture 004 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Engine lowered right out, and free!  Picture 005 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Top eight bolts sprayed with WD40, waited 30 mins, and they came right off.  Picture 006 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Rotated the cam until the spring I wanted to work on was visible. Threaded dental floss "safety line" through the spring threads in case a spring got free down in the engine. Also packed it off with towels to block it (not shown in this picture).  Picture 008 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Used small needle nose plyers to get the springs out. Need to push the long end up first, and then fold it down on the weight to get the lower hook out. Bad news: The replacement springs from CHR are not the right size. Replacement on the left, old on the right - same size. Gonna have to bend them.  Picture 007 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Forgot to take a picture of the bent spring - sorry. Springs back in place, and also cleaned up the tensioner and reinstalled. But what is with this gasket? It's like a hard plastic piece.  Picture 009 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr LM says to put it back, so I buttoned it back up and locked it down to 22. More later. The motor slid right in on the jack. Used the jack lift to line up the rear bolts, which went in easy. But be warned, if you have a side stand bracket you can forget to line it up with the botton left bolt, and have to back the engine out and start over. Used a strap around the front of the engine back to the rear pegs, and then tightened it up until the engine roated up into place for the top bolts. Total time to bolted in - less than 30 mins.
 Picture 013 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Engine is in and free of the jack.  Picture 014 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr New coils and wires. Coils from WHH fit perfect in brackets. Thanks Terry!  Picture 016 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Uh oh. I knew I would find something broken in this process. This crack on the kickstarter housing is not all the way through yet, but it stopped me from further cleaning. Gonna be a pricey replacement. Gonna put it in for now and hope. Too bad my electric start doesn't work - maybe I can push start.  Picture 017 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Side cover on and kickstarter installed right on the first try - thanks for the tips!  Picture 019 by Jrlovvorn, on Flickr Time for a break. More later.
What does the gear on the back of the kicker do?
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