1962 CB77 Restoration underway

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:28 pm

hillhudson wrote:do you recommend replacing the fork springs when doing a resto ? i figure the original ones in my cb77 are all soft and tired.

Hill, I was lucky enough to find 2 complete NOS tubes for mine but if I didn't I probably would have used the original springs. I imagine the shop manual has test rates to see if the springs are in spec, but can't say for sure. Post this question on the Super Hawk forum and I'm sure you'll get some input.

HT

hillhudson · Post by **hillhudson** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 7:54 pm

thanx tom, keep the resto photos comin ! :) i'll make sure to post a play by play once i start my rebuild.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:25 pm

Ok, It's time to split the cases now. There are a total of 17 nuts and bolts you will need to remove in order to separate the cases. We'll start with the 2 on top that holds the stopper plate. In the photo I already removed the 2x 8mm hex nuts. Also the stud started backing out, ignore it as it should be the same height as the other stud.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:38 pm

Now there's 15 on the bottom to deal with. This is a 1962 motor and 1998 revision of Bill Silver's book says there are 14 on the bottom. I don't know if later motors have 14, but mine has 15. I like to break the tension on all of them before taking them all off. I don't know if that truly makes a difference but it is what I do. In this photo there are 3 bolts in front and 4 nuts behind them in a row. The 2 nuts in the middle are acorn (blind) nuts. Break the tension on them. Ignore the oil pump cover, we'll deal with that later.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:49 pm

Moving on down we have 4 more nuts to deal with. Two 8mm nuts on the outsides and two 6mm nuts on the insides. Break the tension on them. The one 6mm you see on the right is the 6mm sealing nut. Now that nut takes a special aluminum sealing washer. When you re-assemble I don't recommend re-using that crush washer, unless you possibly want to have a little oil leak which will anger the Honda gods. Honda motors are not supposed to leak oil. Don't become an embarrassment to the vintage Honda community! It is part # 90481-250-000, and I don't know if it is still available from Honda, but a suitable alternative should be readily available at your local auto parts counter.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 9:51 pm

Moving down to the end we have two 6mm bolts and two 6mm nuts. Break the tension on them. Now loosen and remove the 15 nuts and bolts.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Tue Mar 01, 2011 10:13 pm

Now it's time to split the cases. This is no time to be impatient and ham-fisted. I like to use a utility knife blade that I gingerly tap around the cases with. I have a small finishing hammer I tap with. Then I use a scraper that I have filed/sharpened so it slides in easier and I can pry with it when I get to the thicker part of the blade. There are 2 locating dowels, one in the middle front and one in the middle rear. I have another scraper that I use so I can pry 2 different ares at the same time. I also have a rubber mallet I use if gentle persuasion is needed. Remember, be patient and try not to damage the case mating surfaces.