What a concept - A Girl Bringing Back Her 1966 Super Hawk

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:43 pm

I've working on the wheels, trying to polish out the brake backing plates and hubs. I've got the backing plates looking nice. The chrome is clean on the brake linkages, but like much of the chrome on the Old Girl there is lot of pitting on them. I can live with that, because she's a survivor, and it matches the "tasteful" patina elsewhere on the bike. What I am finding I can't live with, though, is the awful pitting on the rims. They are bad. The Old Girl sat covered up, splitting time between my garage and my dad's garage for almost 40 years, and he and I both had cats. I guess they thought the wheels on the Old Girl were their territory, because they marked them - over and over - and that acid took it's toll. And then there is the corrosion on the hubs and spokes. It's just too unsightly to call "tasteful patina". I am going to have to bite the bullet and take the wheels apart, polish out the spokes, polish out the hubs, and perhaps replace the rims. I'll make that decision when I get the wheels broken down.

I get to where I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, and "not good enough" pops up again.

Oh - one of the wheel bearings in the rear hub feels a bit rough. How do I get those bearings out of the hubs without making a mess of the hub itself - any suggestions?

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 3:05 am

Hi Sara

Good progress!

My CB77 was probably worse than yours but I stripped both wheels carefully using a good spoke wrench and polished both spokes and nipples on a rotary wire brush. If you have problems getting the nipples undone, apply a bit of heat from the trusty blow torch and apply some penetrating oil. Although tedious it is very therapeutic and satisfying even if you just give the parts a good clean.

rear wheel by graham.curtis, on Flickr

For a nice looking effect have the spokes re-plated (zinc) and clear passivated. The nipples should be yellow (gold) passivated. Ask the platers about baking the spokes after plating to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. My plater does work for Rolls Royce (aero) and didn't consider it a problem with thin sections.

I 'polished' the ribbed centre part of the hub with a 'satin finish' (scotchbrite) mop in my polisher and polished the outside of the hubs with a normal mop. I don't like them too shiny.

The lovely ladies at Prestige Electroplating polished and re-plated my rims without removing the all-important DID logo.

I relaced the rims myself.

Wheels Built by graham.curtis, on Flickr

This is the time to get the brake drums re-surfaced if you need to. Bikes standing for a long time tend to get rust at the bottom part of the drum making it go out of round.

In terms of removing the bearings, you need a long flat-bottomed punch and just tap the centre spacer to one side so that you can get to the edge of the far bearing from the inside. As you tap against the bearing inner race you will allow the center spacer to move over a little more. Keep taping around that inner and eventually the bearing will pop out. You may need a little heat and you will need to support the hub near the bearing with some hard wood.

I just finished loosely assembling my front forks earlier this week. I'm catching you up..... :-)

CB77 Front Forks by graham.curtis, on Flickr

Take care

G

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 6:23 am

Graham! I thought you'd have some advice, and as always, I was looking forward to it! Oh, and yes, it is 3 AM here - I'm on night shift right now :(

I'll have to check with platers here to find out prices for replating the rims. It might be cheaper to buy a Thailand set. I'll get to knocking that bearing out later today. Then I'll set about breaking down the wheels. The original (well, not original, but old) tires are still on them, and they'll need to come off first (obviously).

Ahhh...it never ends, does it?

Your front forks are looking wonderful!! Those wheels certainly came out nice, too. I hope I have the same outcome.

Thank you, my friend!

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 6:47 am

Sara

I sympathise with your night shift. I have to do two nights in the Park Avenue railway tunnel under Manhattan on Monday and Tuesday from 21:30 to 05-30. We are doing the preparation fro installing some of our rail sensors which measure strain, vibration and temperature to detect faulty train wheels.. It's cold dark and generally nasty down there......

Take Care

G

cknight · Post by **cknight** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 8:52 am

Have yet to see any of the offshore rims have the correct spoke angles for the CB72/77's. They do seem proper for the CB160's with the smaller diameter brake drums. If someone knows of any reasonably priced replacement steel WM1 and WM2 17" rims with the correct spoke angles (apprx. 41 degrees), it would be good to hear. Regards, Chase

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:37 am

Sara,

Stay away from those Thailand rims. I have seen more "restored" bikes over the last 3-4 years with these rims and they are not drilled correctly. Bowed spokes look awful. There is a decent looking front DID rim on ebay now for a good price including a best offer feature, item 231095000663 . I ghink your best bet would be to find good, used original DID rims, especially if you are leaving other original chrome on the bike.

HT

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:37 am

Sara,

Stay away from those Thailand rims. I have seen more "restored" bikes over the last 3-4 years with these rims and they are not drilled correctly. Bowed spokes look awful. There is a decent looking front DID rim on ebay now for a good price including a best offer feature, item 231095000663 . I think your best bet would be to find good, used original DID rims, especially if you are leaving other original chrome on the bike.

HT