Bob Dale wrote:I read somewhere that the spark plug fouling could be caused by low voltage supply to the coil. My battery reads 12.6v and both sides of the coil (green and black wires) read 12.57...more than enough. Cross out that possibility.
Houston 1966 305 Dream Log
Re: Voltage at the coilIt's your cam timing. ....................lm
That's NOT what I want to hear. Are you sure that's the only possibility? There are 3 reasons that I ask:
1) This is how it was before I took anything apart. The points were fully rotated to their limit and the timing was off. If it is one tooth off, then it must have also been that way before I got it. 2) I checked carefully before reassembling it. The master link was stradling the marked tooth with the T lined up and the flat spot level. I rotated it through several cycles. The master link progressed about 1 tooth each time (normal?) but the sprocket returned to level at the T position. 3) I really dont want to pull the engine again! Assuming I accept reality and pull the engine, is it likely that the cam chain or some other part is somehow bad? How could both I and the last "hack" make the exact same mistake unless something is out of spec? Would there be a next explanation if I were to find that everything appears lined up? Thanks for the help. Is it possible that the perspective of my picture might have been misleading? It was taken with the camera level but the cylinder is on a slight diagonal. Therefore, for the mark to be perfectly in line with the cylinder it must be slightly out of plumb. When I look at the engine, the mark does appear about as perfectly aligned with the cylinder as I can imagine it should be. Moving one tooth in either direction would seem to throw it off. Take a look at the alignment between the 2 point position set screws. Those are aligned with the cylinder as well, although they are not plumb.
My eyes tell me that your pic shows the mark not perfectly in line with the center of the engine and this will be one tooth off as the rotor comes around to open the points to fire thew coil. )placed a straight line center to center of the screws also) How can this be? Getting the cam chain installed correctly is difficult. I prop the front high so the cylinders are vertical. Hold the rotor steady/firm with vise grip pliers. Now the trick is to get that line (up position at this time) Not Close but perfectly in line with the top of the head. If ya are 2 degrees off the timing will not come in as it should. Which is what ya show and discuss with your engine running problems. I've seen this problem with TYPE 1 and TYPE 2 engines many times. Now it's your engine and problem and you've stated all the problems that one tooth off will do and if you are satisfied that the cam is positioned correctly then have fun. BTW if you open the holes on the plate and move the points more you will COOK YOUR ENGINE. ........................lm
I dont doubt that you are correct. At this point I have to concede that its the only thing that makes sense. I had thought about the possibility of opening the holes to allow the plate to come on around further but it didnt sound like a good idea, which you have confirmed for me. Unfortunately it will be a week or so before I can get back to it. Is it worth going ahead and replacing the condensor while I have the engine dropped again or is that part not likely to fail later? Also, what about the advance mechanism...is there anything that I should do with that while the top is off? I dont recall anything looking out of whack in there but nows a good time to perform any easy preventative maintenance.
Did ya replace the cam chain? Did ya have the chain tensioner out? Have ya removed the clutch and cleaned all the disc? If ya have problems with getting the timing spot on get in touch with me and I'll talk ya through the process that works for me. I'll be gone from tomorrow until next Tuesday. "BARBER MUSEUM event. If ya want to replace the condenser that is a good time for sure. I have them so if ya want get to me direct and I'll give ya a cost. Ya can actually check the cam springs now. Ya can twist the points cam and should feel tension that causes it to go back to No Advance. Hard to find springs now days. I recommend ya look at all the rocker adjuster screws at the end where they contact the top of the valve. If ya see FLAT areas ya should replace them because it's imposable to adjust the valves correctly with that end not round/domed. ............................lm
No, I did not replace the cam chain. It appeared to fit snugly and had no visible wear so I thought it was good. Yes, I did have the tensioner out and have done nothing with it other than put it back in. It looked fine as well. Yes, I have completely cleaned all of the clutch plates. They dont completely release as evidenced by the back wheel turning if the transmission is put into gear while on the stand but you cant feel any forward pressure when sitting on the bike. I have never been able to ride it long enough to see if it gets worse as it heats up. I did check the rocker adjuster screws and they seemed fine but again, they may be cheap enough to just replace and be done with it. Do you recommend replacing the cam chain at this point?
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