Typical of my luck with this project. And they don't take returns on electrical components. What a waste of money. Can you recommend the proper replacement?mike in idaho wrote:You have a three-phase rectifier there, your bike requires a single phase type(two yellow wires).
Charlie's Place Rectifier/Regulator WiringI haven't spoken to them yet, so I don't want to put the cart before the horse, but I anticipate their telling me that they've given me the correct part. this was their last email message to me: hi ! Your Regulator/Rectifier is on the way! Please see the instructions for installation below. Just let us know if you have any questions! Thank you! / Charlie's Place For CA/CB/CL 72/77 1) Remove old rectifier 2) Mount new reg/rect where original rectifier was mounted. Make sure the unit has a solid ground at the mounting point. Also make sure wires are not kinked or crushed where they exit the unit. 3) Connect three yellow from the new reg/rect to the three wires coming from the stator. Note: there is a fourth wire coming from the stator that is light green w/red stripe. It has a different type of insulation than the other three wires. This is the neutral light switch wire and needs to be plugged back into the harness. 3) Connect red wire from unit to battery positive, and connect green wire from unit to battery negative. From their website: "Easy to wire-in and comes with complete step-by-step instructions." Not so easy to me….
I'm no electric engineer but it seems that the rectifier will still do its job even if it is only getting a/c current in two wires instead of three. If they won't accept returns anyway,go ahead and wire it in with the extra wire taped off. It may work just fine that way.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160 '66 CL160 '66 CL77 '78 XS650 '79 GL1000 '69 T100R '68 TR6 '69 T120 '72 750 Commando my company car is a Kenworth
You could just connect the new rectifier to the connections removed from the original rectifier, then tie the yellow and pink wires together at the headlight switch. Or you could connect directly to the wires coming out of the engine and bypass the original harness wires. Tie the yellow/pink wires together at that location and plug them into one yellow lead from the rectifier, plugging the brown wire into the other lead. Connect the red wire to either the original red battery wire (old rectifier connection) or to a new fused wire connected to the battery post. The black wire can go to ground or the battery negative post, whichever is easier.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160 '66 CL160 '66 CL77 '78 XS650 '79 GL1000 '69 T100R '68 TR6 '69 T120 '72 750 Commando my company car is a Kenworth This just received from Charlie's:
The wires coming directly from the stator plug into three individual couplers behind the carburetor. This is where you connect them to the three wires from the unit. There is no need to splice, or hack into the wiring. The three wire gang plug that comes out from the frame is not your connection point. Simply cut that plug off and tape up where it used to come out. For the record: neither the pink wire, nor any other wire coming directly from the stator power the headlight. The headlight, and all components of the bike run directly off the battery. Period. Connect all three yellow wires from the new unit to the three wires coming directly from the stator. Here is how: Remove the cast aluminum 'carb covers' behind the carb (if you still have them on the bike), clear away the cowebs, and you will see four individual wires coming directly out of the bottom of the motor. The fourth wire is the neutral light switch (lt grn w/red stripe) leave it plugged into the harness. Plug the other three wires - brown, yellow, pink into the three yellow wires from the new unit in no specific order. That is how you wire it.
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