turn key = blown fuse

versuspop · Post by **versuspop** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 3:57 pm

suspect cable routes as follows:black from ignition switch y's off to horn; continues to and y's off to ignition coil; continues and y's off to winker relay.

ok...i tested through, and the line is good(fuse no blow) if:
1. lead connected to winker relay on both poles and not to ignition coil.
2. lead connected to winker relay and connected to positive on ignition coil and lead going to condenser is disconnected.
3. all connections to winker and coil connected and points open.

fuse blows when points close.

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:25 pm

OK, strange. Make sure wire at points is connected properly. It should be sandwiched between fiber washers, and there should be a fiber ring around the bolt where it goes through points.

davomoto

versuspop · Post by **versuspop** » Sun Jul 26, 2009 10:51 am

i should mention that when last i was adjusting the timing, the points plate was sparking like mad against the head as i rotated it? does this bear any weight?

Goodysnap · Post by **Goodysnap** » Sun Jul 26, 2009 11:16 am

The arching you mention is probably not related to the fuse blowing. Its just the ground path for the points and is arching between the plate and head instead of the contacts while the plate is loose. Try isolating each coil by removing the power side one at a time. I'm assuming it is not shorted w/ 12v disconnected from the coils?Sounds like you might have a internally shorted ignition coil to me.

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Sun Jul 26, 2009 1:17 pm

Normal when the points plate is loose.

davomoto

versuspop · Post by **versuspop** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 7:50 am

I am not getting resistance from the leads on the condenser.

67305dream · Post by **67305dream** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:54 am

I'm with Goodysnap, sounds like a shorted coil to me.