how can i get rid of the light switch?

sotxbill · Post by **sotxbill** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 7:57 am

top picture shows a spring loaded wire that shorts out the high and low leads of the bulb?? or at least is appears that way?? Is the bail wire actually touching the back of the bulb contracts and shorting them out?? good luck.. Bill

deez · Post by **deez** » Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:37 am

thanks ill ground it. the headlight is not really working at normal brightness until i rev up the motor otherwise the headlight and tailight flickers in tune with the idle of the motor.
-cheers
-deez

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Thu Aug 13, 2009 7:27 am

You'll encounter that pulsing phenomenon simply by using a battery eliminator; a battery will stabilise the alternator's output far more ably than will a capacitor.

deez · Post by **deez** » Fri Aug 14, 2009 8:21 pm

e3steve a couple people have mentioned a ballast resistor? would this smooth things out? im concerned about the bulb life do to all the flickering. any info again would be great help.
-cheers
-deez

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 5:22 am

Without the electric starter there's no need for high current provision; therefore, try installing a 12V AGM battery designed for burglar alarms. Yuasa, Power Sonic and Silver are trusted brands, to name but three. These have push-on / Faston / Lucar (usually the smaller-blade 4.8mm) male terminals, will provide enough current for the ignition system and short-term lighting and will stabilise the alternator's voltage. They also vary in shape and capacity from 800mAh. Browsable here for you US guys http://www.radioshack.com/search/index. ... ttery&sr=1 and detailed specs here http://www.power-sonic.com/index.php?id=31&gr_id=40 and a couple of recommendations here http://www.power-sonic.com/site/doc/prod/84.pdf ¦¦¦ http://www.power-sonic.com/site/doc/prod/63.pdf ; my recommended minimum, from the Radio Shack page, would be the 1.3Ah GH1213 at $15.99.

These are designed to be trickle charged continuously, but rest assured that our charging systems won't overcharge anyway(!). Even so, they're cheap enough to replace them once a year (the recommendation in alarm systems -- burglar and fire -- is every five years).

G'luck mate!

Steve

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 10:25 am

sotxbill wrote:top picture shows a spring loaded wire that shorts out the high and low leads of the bulb?? or at least is appears that way?? Is the bail wire actually touching the back of the bulb contracts and shorting them out?? good luck.. Bill

I missed those pics in Deez's January post; they didn't manifest themselves whilst browsing (it happens sometimes). This isn't right and would cause hi- and lo-beams together!

deez · Post by **deez** » Sat Aug 15, 2009 2:42 pm

e3steve those battery links are great!!! that would be a way better solution than the computer capacitor that im running as of now. so when im shopping for these what do i look for? 12v and what other spec?
that diagram i drew of the headlight setup is actually wrong i have one wire going to red then the other wire going to blue and when i toggle the hi lo bar switch it does change from high and low.
thanks a ton steve
-deez