cb77 battery drain

[rzgkane]

Disconnect, one by one, any wires coming from the battery positive while the ammeter is checking draw. You will quickly find which component is pulling the undesired current.

I have not looked at the schematic but if it's anything like the CA77 you will have a large cable coming from the battery positive to the starter solenoid. Disconnect it from the battery to rule out everything that pulls current from that cable, including the starter and the solenoid. If the draw goes away you've found the culprit.

If the draw remains, move to the next phase of ruling out items that receive their power through the ignition switch. You might try disconnecting the ignition switch's main connector plug. If the draw is still there, you have a short to ground somewhere between the battery and the switch side of the ignition switch's plug (not much ground to cover). If the draw goes away by disconnecting the ignition switch's plug you know you have a draw at the switch itself or in a circuit on the output side of the switch. That's when you start disconnecting one wire at a time and see when the draw ceases.

Have you tried unplugging the rectifier and seeing if it drains down then? A quicker approach- if you have an ohmmeter- would be to check continutity to ground keeping in mind to use the negative probe on the ground. There shouldn't be any. You could also try removing the fuse and check for a ground on the ignition side.

Original selenium rectifiers are problematic, repops not so much, but that doesn't mean you couldn't have a bad one.

Disconnected rectifier and still draining
Removed ignition fuse ,same thing
Any thoughts on where it look now
See the points sparking some and touching the points plate
Will sometime shock me
Guess that can't be right

[YOUNGBLOODHAWKE]

Disconnect, one by one, any wires coming from the battery positive while the ammeter is checking draw. You will quickly find which component is pulling the undesired current.

I have not looked at the schematic but if it's anything like the CA77 you will have a large cable coming from the battery positive to the starter solenoid. Disconnect it from the battery to rule out everything that pulls current from that cable, including the starter and the solenoid. If the draw goes away you've found the culprit.

If the draw remains, move to the next phase of ruling out items that receive their power through the ignition switch. You might try disconnecting the ignition switch's main connector plug. If the draw is still there, you have a short to ground somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch. If the draw goes away by disconnecting the ignition switch's plug you know you have a draw at the switch itself or in a circuit on the output side of the switch. That's when you start disconnecting one wire at a time and see when the draw ceases.

dont know why i am letting this bike intimidate me so.just bought it as a very high quality completed restoration project out of a longterm display setting. was just tired of working on my on stuff myself and wanted to turn the key and enjoy the fruit of someone elses hard work.
in the last year ive done a nuts and bolts on my 61 cushman cast iron eagle inc electric statrt and elec ig and also a 60 cushman trailster.a 1957 cavileer coke machine and can see the end of a 4 year build of my candy apple hilborn injected 55 chevy nostalgia gasser .
there is a super 90 in there somewhere too

headed out to the barn now to follow your advice
may even scratch some paint on purpose
and pretend im 14 and not 60

Have you tried unplugging the rectifier and seeing if it drains down then? A quicker approach- if you have an ohmmeter- would be to check continutity to ground keeping in mind to use the negative probe on the ground. There shouldn't be any. You could also try removing the fuse and check for a ground on the ignition side.

Original selenium rectifiers are problematic, repops not so much, but that doesn't mean you couldn't have a bad one.

Disconnected rectifier and still draining
Removed ignition fuse ,same thing
Any thoughts on where it look now
See the points sparking some and touching the points plate
Will sometime shock me
Guess that can't be right

[YOUNGBLOODHAWKE]

Disconnect, one by one, any wires coming from the battery positive while the ammeter is checking draw. You will quickly find which component is pulling the undesired current.

I have not looked at the schematic but if it's anything like the CA77 you will have a large cable coming from the battery positive to the starter solenoid. Disconnect it from the battery to rule out everything that pulls current from that cable, including the starter and the solenoid. If the draw goes away you've found the culprit.

If the draw remains, move to the next phase of ruling out items that receive their power through the ignition switch. You might try disconnecting the ignition switch's main connector plug. If the draw is still there, you have a short to ground somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch. If the draw goes away by disconnecting the ignition switch's plug you know you have a draw at the switch itself or in a circuit on the output side of the switch. That's when you start disconnecting one wire at a time and see when the draw ceases.






guys
dont know why i am letting this bike intimidate me so.just bought it as a very high quality completed restoration project out of a longterm display setting. was just tired of working on my on stuff myself and wanted to turn the key and enjoy the fruit of someone elses hard work.
in the last year ive done a nuts and bolts on my 61 cushman cast iron eagle inc electric statrt and elec ig and also a 60 cushman trailster.a 1957 cavileer coke machine and can see the end of a 4 year build of my candy apple hilborn injected 55 chevy nostalgia gasser .
there is a super 90 in there somewhere too

headed out to the barn now to follow your advice
may even scratch some paint on purpose
and pretend im 14 and not 60

Have you tried unplugging the rectifier and seeing if it drains down then? A quicker approach- if you have an ohmmeter- would be to check continutity to ground keeping in mind to use the negative probe on the ground. There shouldn't be any. You could also try removing the fuse and check for a ground on the ignition side.

Original selenium rectifiers are problematic, repops not so much, but that doesn't mean you couldn't have a bad one.

Disconnected rectifier and still draining
Removed ignition fuse ,same thing
Any thoughts on where it look now
See the points sparking some and touching the points plate
Will sometime shock me
Guess that can't be right