Let's test a rectifier (celenium diode [pack])
RectifiersSorry guys, I've been away to UK (little girl got married); and my laptop was stolen, so other priorities....
For reference, take a look at the diagram again: positive output lug is normally adjacent to the bevelled corner, negative output is diagonally opposite. AC input is fed into the remaining two lugs, either way around. This is 99.99% the case with the type of bridge rectifiers we're dealing with here. If there's a different diode layout in this type of package I've never seen it in my 36 yrs in electronics (but that doesn't mean to say that it may not exist!). Ergo, as long as you can locate either the pos or neg lug, then you'll have no trouble locating the remainder. All a diode really is? An electrical non-return valve! So it's quite easy to test with a continuity tester or a meter. See also my post "Let's test a rectifier", which will show how to locate the lugs if there are no markings, 13.25V sounds like a big improvement over the old celenium rec, DD! The heat sink is indispensible, as the rec will get hot, so dissipation is the key. If you look back thru my previous idle chit-chat, you'll find reference to some recs with their current-handling figures; the higher the Amps it will handle, the less heat it will produce. One problem, of course, is that it's not in much of an airflow, so the biggest, fattest (and finned) h/s you can get in, the better. Make sure the rec sits on the h/s absolutely flat (de-burr the mounting hole) and it's always a good idea to bed it down on some heat-conducting paste (cheap as chips from Radio Shack) and bolt it good & tight. The charging system probably produces a maximum of 10 Amps and, as the system is fused at 15, so a 15-Amp rec will suffice; but if you want it to run cooler, go for a 25-Amp. Please look at my previous posts here, as there are different types of diode with less attenuation (reduction), but a silicon-diode bridge rectifier should be the favourite. For best heat-handling results get a rec that's potted in a metal package too. Get back here if you need any more info. Regards, Steve
DD, I no longer have the 'wife - V3.0 software' problem. She left, lock, stock & 2-smokin' barrells, whilst I was in UK for a long weekend with my kids. RESULT!
Her beef? 1. "You love you job more than you love me!" , 2. "You love your computers more than you love me!" and 3. "You love that f***ing bike more than you love me!!" My counter arguments: 1. "The job treats me well and brings me money - you spend most of it....", 2. "The computers give me useful information and entertain me silently without complaint...." and 3. "CB and I have a long-term, (mostly) happy relationship - and it's more economical to keep.". Her point is......? The salient point here is that I now have more time to spend on the charging system - when I get the starter sprocket oil seal from Western Hills and can run the motor again, that is. Ed?! You a-readin' this? I am not sure to congratulate you or send my sympathy. My wedding anniversary was a couple of days ago, so I asked my wife what she wanted for our anniversary she said, “a divorce” I said to her “WELL HONEY I REALLY WAS NOT PLANING ON SPENDING THAT MUCH MONEY”…………………
Well, the 'old girl' -- CB, not the now-living-somewhere-else wife -- is running and getting ridden (previous statement also applies!). I've been taking some charging readings with my Fluke clampmeter and Fluke multimeter; the results are tabled below. I have a new battery and an aftermarket rec, although I can't be sure what type of diode upon which it's based, but, from the voltage readings I've taken, I'd say it ain't very efficient and I'm going to pick up a silicon-diode rec in due course, posting further results as things progress:
Battery volts before cranking - 12.84 After startup @ 2000 rpm - 11.98 @ 0.5 Amp Parking lights on @ 2000 rpm - 12.08 @ 0.8 Amp Warmed up @ 6000 rpm - 12.20 @ 1 Amp Parking lights on @ 6000 rpm - 12.28 @ 1.6 Amps Headlight on @ 6000 rpm - 12.15 @ 0.4 Amp Headlight on @ 1000 rpm - 12.01 @ -0.7 Amp Startup took less than a 2-second press of the button. Now, the upshot of this test reveals two things: i) if my rec is 'standard', i.e. a selenium diode type, then it shows how 'balanced' the charging system is, and ii) definitely drop back onto parking lights when idling the motor! More to come as I try other experiments. I've ordered a 35/35 halogen Bosch-cap headlamp bulb and a LED taillight bulb -- watch this space..... Regards, Steve
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