Electronic Ignition Pops

Seadog · Post by **Seadog** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:38 am

He will. Then he can test his coil.

LOUD MOUSE wrote:He hasn't tested for 12 volts yet!. .................lm

Seadog wrote:Coil test for resistance https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c

danielzink · Post by **danielzink** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 10:29 am

Have you tried putting your points back on and seeing if you make spark ?

Dr. Frankenstein · Post by **Dr. Frankenstein** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 5:26 pm

OK, I'm a little confused here...if I can't test my coil until I test for 12 volts at the switch, which I thought I did and got 12.27 volts at the switch...

...and to test the coil (according to the video) you have to test it entirely out of the system as far as any electrical connections go...what does one have to do with the other?

FWIW I tested the coils that I have - an aftermarket new one, and the old OEM one...and according to the video link that Seadog put in (which was a Big help, btw - Thanks Seadog!), both of those secondary windings are shot, so (according to the video link, which I followed religiously) ) those coils are bad...Yes? I don't get a spark from either one...

Is there a certain way I'm supposed to test the switch? And in this case, what does one have to do with the other?
Besides the obvious, of course...you need the electricity to power the coil to produce the spark, yes...

LOUD MOUSE · Post by **LOUD MOUSE** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:20 pm

OK!
Near as I can tell "you have yet to test for 12 volts at one of the 2 wires to/at the coil with the switch on".
I'm done!. ......................lm

Dr. Frankenstein wrote:OK, I'm a little confused here...if I can't test my coil until I test for 12 volts at the switch, which I thought I did and got 12.27 volts at the switch...

...and to test the coil (according to the video) you have to test it entirely out of the system as far as any electrical connections go...what does one have to do with the other?

FWIW I tested the coils that I have - an aftermarket new one, and the old OEM one...and according to the video link that Seadog put in (which was a Big help, btw - Thanks Seadog!), both of those secondary windings are shot, so (according to the video link, which I followed religiously) ) those coils are bad...Yes? I don't get a spark from either one...

Is there a certain way I'm supposed to test the switch? And in this case, what does one have to do with the other?
Besides the obvious, of course...you need the electricity to power the coil to produce the spark, yes...

mike in idaho · Post by **mike in idaho** » Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:43 pm

Dr. Frankenstein wrote:OK, I'm a little confused here...if I can't test my coil until I test for 12 volts at the switch, which I thought I did and got 12.27 volts at the switch...

...and to test the coil (according to the video) you have to test it entirely out of the system as far as any electrical connections go...what does one have to do with the other?

Is there a certain way I'm supposed to test the switch? And in this case, what does one have to do with the other?
Besides the obvious, of course...you need the electricity to power the coil to produce the spark, yes...

Like Ed says, you need to check the voltage under load, with the switch turned on and the points closed. Test the switch and the wires by doing a voltage drop test. With your meter set to volts, connect one lead to battery plus post and the other lead to the plus terminal of the coil. There should be 1 volt or less showing on the meter if the switch and the wiring is in good shape.

Dr. Frankenstein · Post by **Dr. Frankenstein** » Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:07 am

Thanks, Mike, that's much clearer. I don't know Anything about electricity, so having a clear explanation of how and why to do something and what it is supposed to show or the expected results is a great help.

So if I get anything else other than 1, I can assume there is a problem with the coil...? Or does it then become a drop-down hunt?

Is there a way to do this with the electronic ignition on, or does it all have to go back to 'stock'? Same principle, right? Make sure everything is connected and then run the same test?

mike in idaho · Post by **mike in idaho** » Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:46 am

Same principle for the coil, lights or whatever. If you get too much drop in the circuit, retest at any connections between the battery and the coil.
BTW, the coil is probably good if it makes sparks when you cycle the key switch. That's when a coil fires, when the primary circuit is interrupted, either by the points or the power supply.