Kick start lever options

Johnny Suede · Post by **Johnny Suede** » Thu Nov 15, 2012 3:27 am

Has anyone seen a non pinch bolt kick start lever?
This method of tightening the lever to the gear causes more wear and tear than needed. I am thinking about drilling and tapping the kick start gear to bolt the lever on but the lever will still have the gap for the pinch bolt.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Thu Nov 15, 2012 3:49 am

Why do you think that properly clamping the kick start lever to the shaft causes wear?

How are you intending to drill the shaft for your mod? Axially? Radially?

Some BSAs and Triumphs used a tapered cotter, like an old bicycle pedal crank.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/TRIUMPH-KICKSTAR ... xWDEwMjQ=/$(KGrHqJ,!j!E6IdOehm6BOps7QkvCg~~60_35.JPG

G

Johnny Suede · Post by **Johnny Suede** » Thu Nov 15, 2012 12:40 pm

Axial drill, similar to newer style bicycle cranks. The bolt keeps the arm close to the body instead of forcing the splines to meet at angles with each other. These cranks last a very long time with high amounts of quick torque. The splines aren't the first thing to give, it's usually cracks in the arm that cause need for replacement.

Even though this one is a unicycle, you can see the crank is only held by the side bolt.

mike in idaho · Post by **mike in idaho** » Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:01 pm

One thing to do is grind the first two internal splines away, on either side of the split in the lever. The lever can be tightened down a lot tighter this way, still plenty of spline engagement to lock it in place.