G-Man wrote:Malcolm
I have a friend who does that but the stainless silencers are very thin and once the seam is split the two halves are very flexible. I have a stainless set that I want to try it with but I know it will be a long job.
Also - although they are stainless they are not completely immune to corrosion so you may find pitting on the inside. Possible but not a job for the faint-hearted.
Hard to believe but this is a stainless one one that he split open, beat the dents out of and had re-polished. Don't you just hate people who can do that!!
G
New 1961 CB72 Project
FWIW when HONDA issued all CB72/77 bikes the center stands were BLACK. .....lm
Malcolm He replaced the back end on a couple of sets of CL77 pipes for me after some young US oik had hacked them off. You can't see the join after I got them chromed. They look better than a NOS set I got from David Silver. G '60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F Finished my restoration...Hi - I thought I'd show my bike after a year of restoration. I now ride to work (approx 25 mi. each way) when the weather is decent. Runs pretty well with the occasional shift not getting into 3rd gear, but it usually gets there...i spent a lot of time with a steel brush on a 2 wheel buffer, and most of the metal and chrome parts came back to life. Had the tank side panels and brake arms on the wheels rechromed. Had the tank and headlight shell professional painted, and spent many hours degreasing the engine and replacing the gaskets, among other things...Couldn't salvage the mufflers or shocks, so I went with Hagon shocks, Emgo Dunstall mufflers (loud!).
Two tips I thought someone might find helpful: I needed to replace my chrome fork seals. The originals where very rusty. But removing them involved first removing the lower brass bushings, which are riveted in place. I tried to punch them out, but they wouldn't budge. So I ended up drilling them out, tapping the hole, and using set screws (#10-24 x1/4" from Bolt Depot) which I filed down so they conformed to the curve of the bushings (inside and outside) and used Blue Threadlocker to hold them in place. Original gas cap was leaking - cork was not in good shape. I ordered a new cap from Classic Cycle Parts with a rubber gasket. It has more clearance from the top of the tank than the original cap, which was good - easier to get on and off. It came with a rubber gasket - seemed tight, but still leaked when the tank was 3/4 full. Thought I'd try cork again - seemed like it might seal better. So I found some cork/rubber 1/8" sheet at Autozone - part #3019. Traced the rubber gasket, cut it out, and it works great - no more leaks! This forum was invaluable! Jon
|