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Anyone ever thought about making an electronic ignition?

Points Based Ignition | Electronic Ignition Upgrade
Hahnda
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Post by Hahnda » Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:52 pm

that little unit may be similar to the Dyna S. I have one of those on a CB750 and a Moto Guzzi Ambassador. No separate box to install, all included on the plate. I also have a Dyna III on a Moto Guzzi Convert and that does have a separate box to convert the signal. I'm not sure why one does and one doesn't.

56_oval
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Post by 56_oval » Thu Dec 02, 2010 10:00 pm

Hahnda wrote:that little unit may be similar to the Dyna S. I have one of those on a CB750 and a Moto Guzzi Ambassador. No separate box to install, all included on the plate. I also have a Dyna III on a Moto Guzzi Convert and that does have a separate box to convert the signal. I'm not sure why one does and one doesn't.
Some systems use a hall type sensor (with the magnets), and other systems use an optical trigger. Optical triggers are much more accurate, but require a separate box to control the trigger. I'm not an expert on these, but I have used both systems, just not on motorcycles. I'm hoping I can get it to work. We'll see.

Wilf
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Post by Wilf » Thu Dec 02, 2010 11:16 pm

56_oval,

I'm sorry I wasn't more specific in my previous question. I am familiar with how ignition systems work...what I meant to ask was how the unit you described and photographed did its job.

Wilf

56_oval
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Post by 56_oval » Fri Dec 03, 2010 12:02 am

Wilf wrote:56_oval,

I'm sorry I wasn't more specific in my previous question. I am familiar with how ignition systems work...what I meant to ask was how the unit you described and photographed did its job.

Wilf
The wired unit is more or less a magnetic pickup doing the same job as points, opening and closing when told. The disc has 4 magnets on it (this kit is made for a vintage VW). The disc spins in the distributor, and as the magnets pass over the pickup, it sends a signal to the coil to fire. All it is is an on/off switch just like a contact breaker. The coil itself builds a charge from the power it is getting from either the battery or the stator until it looses connection with the contact (negative) terminal, then releases its energy to the only ground it has left, the spark plug. I hope I explained it correctly. I will not claim to be an expert on the topic, but I feel that I understand it. I'm in school for electronics and engineering, so maybe by this time next year, I can explain it even better.

Wilf
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Post by Wilf » Fri Dec 03, 2010 12:50 am

From your description it sounds like a reed switch does the switching of the coil primary?

I know how an ignition coil works. What I want to know is how your system works from the point of picking up the magnetic pulse to the triggering of the coil.

Wilf

56_oval
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Post by 56_oval » Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:56 am

I guess I'm confused here. I thought I had answered that. The only thing you're doing is replacing the points with the pickups. You don't have to use a condenser anymore either. The unit takes place of both. The only thing you would have to do would be to make a plate that these would mount on and a disc that would fit the cam.
This idea has been around for awhile now. I don't see why it can't work on a motorcycle. I think the trick will be in the timing.
Here's the same thing for a mustang.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techartic ... to_02.html

jensen
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Post by jensen » Fri Dec 03, 2010 3:39 am

Hi,

I do have a self build electronic ignition on my CB72, but it would have been cheaper to buy it, but money wasn't my drive.

I have a CDI ignition system, with a programmable advance timing. The reason why I wanted something like this is because I don't like the timing captured from the cams, but from the crank. I use hall sensors and rare earth magnets, and it is very precise. The sensors are build in the crankcase and therefore invisible, the magnets are placed in the crank itself.

The maximum advance I can program is 50 degrees, but I stick at 42 degrees @1000 rpm, it works best according to the gas analyzer on the dyno. I can programme a LUT-table with a 100 rpm resolution (via RS232), over the entire rpm range, so retard at 10.500 rpm to have a build in fail save. A colleague (and good friend) of my build it, as a favor to me for rebuilding his engine, and it works for years now without any issue's.

The only dis-advantage is that it fires two times for both cylinders in a complete 720 degree revolution, so it consumes a little bit more than the original ignition set-up. I do like the original look, so I left the point cam, points cover and even points and wiring intact. It does use the original coils, maybe not the best way, and not the best decision, but I wanted that.

I will not provide information in detail about how it's made, since I saw other people making money with my work and developments in the past. But it is possible (with a small budget) to build your own ignition system, or use any CDI for small displacement four strokes (like a CB250 for example),

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

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