I've got about 3500 miles on a restored superhawk and after the last 100+ mile ride I noticed my front wheel was making an intermittent chirping noise. I jacked the bike up to get the front tire off the ground and loosened the brake all the way and spun it and noticed some resistance. Not spinning as freely as it should. I ruled out anything exterior, like rubbing tire or something. I suppose it could be something else inside like the brake; I'll pull it apart on Saturday since it's dark now, but my first thought is bad bearings.
They were prob new when I bought the restored bike, so is this how long they last? I've read in some places that they last around 15k miles, so that seems sorta odd. Do they require some kind of lubrication I wasn't aware of? I imagine once they start doing this they're prob bad, but is there any chance you can just lube them and go on your way?
I've never replaced wheel bearings before. Can someone tell me what type/size I need and where I might find some for sale online? I understand they're not too expensive, which is a plus. Do I need a special bearing puller as well?
Thanks, looks like I'm entering some new maintenance phases now that I've taken the bike on longer rides. Good times.
Wheel Bearings!Generally wheel bearings last a long time if they were properly installed. I would not remove them until you are sure they are bad. Once the wheel is removed check each bearing by turning the inner race. If they are fairly free and smooth they are probably okay.
There can be several problems with wheel bearings usually related to improper installation. Some folks tap on the bearing to install. If you tap on the inner race there is a good chance you will damage the bearing. You either use a proper tool for installing or you only tap on the outer race. The second problem is preload. When the axle nut is tightened and the assembly is not properly installed you begin "squeezing" the two bearings together. A small amount of this preload can be okay but too much will cause premature wear and failure. Most have a spacer inside the hub, between the two bearings to prevent this. Check the free spinning of the wheel before installing the axle nut as the nut is tightened continue checking as the nut is tightened. If you decide to change the bearings they can usually be purchased at any place that sells it bearings. It will have a number stamped on. I doubt the bearing has worn out if installed properly. Wheel BearingsIf they ran dry you want to change them. They are cheap and easy to replace. No need to take any chances.
Look in your parts manual. It looks like the size is 6302, but my copy of the Superhawk manual is not very clear. You can find them on ebay for cheap. Get sealed bearings and carefully remove the rubber seals on each side to add more grease and then carefully reinstall the seals. The bearings drive out pretty easy with a socket, but be careful not to get them cocked when removing or installing. Make sure you understand cadman's advice about tapping on the outer race to install and not to put too much preload on the new bearings. The parts manual I'm looking at says 6302U. Is that different from regular 6302? Do I only need to replace these two bearings?
I imagine I'll need to remove the speedo drive fitting on the right side of the wheel hub (three screws) first so I can get to the bearing on the right side, yes? What about part number 5 in the parts manual for the front wheel. It is shown as being between both front wheel bearings and it is called "COLLAR, FR. AXLE DISTANCE"? I imagine that's a spacer between them, so when I hammer on the bearing to get it out, will that spacer be pushed out also? Is there anything I need to do to avoid damaging this piece? When installing the new bearings, it seems kinda risky to bang on them with something too. Will it be necessary to heat up the wheel with a torch and freeze the bearings before assembly? Should they just drop right into place or will they need to be fitted in some way with some tool to avoid damage? Thanks. Get 6202-2RS which is sealed both sides. Common bearing readily available.
I am not familiar with that particular wheel but..... Usually with a long punch or bar (1/4" - 3/8") you can go from the opposite side and knock out the opposite bearing. Since it will not be reused damage is of no concern. The "collar" is the spacer between the bearings that contacts the inner races and prevent over-tightening. It is VERY IMPORTANT it be in place and the exact proper length. The collar is usually a snug fit but can be moved aside a bit to do this. If the collar is loose in place then either the bearings were not seated fully in the wheel when installed or the collar is bad. There a number of ways to install the bearing. You can use the appropriate tool if you have it or ..... If you can find a flat washer that is close to the outer race diameter use two of them (double them to keep from pressing on the inner race) and a piece of threaded rod to pull the bearing from the other side or... Use a flat punch to tap on the outer race. This takes a bit of patience to get started but once started straight is fairly easy. (Lots of folks say you can't do this but I have done it many times - be careful to not let the punch hit the seal). In any case getting the bearing started straight is the most difficult. Yes cooling the bearing and heating the wheel (heat gun) helps quite a bit. They may or may not just drop in you won't know until you try - I haven't found very many that drop in. Also very important to make sure the bearing is firmly seated in the wheel. If both are properly seated the collar will be very snug when in place. If it is not you will be pressing on the inner race when you tighten the axle. DO NOT forget to install the collar before the last bearing. There a number of web instruction on how to do this in different ways.
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