Storage question

skos · Post by **skos** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:44 pm

Storage question

For those who have or know correctly how to store a bike long term.

Can I pull the battery? Can you think of any reason to leave a battery in a bike that is from the 60’s or 70’s?

I also found this

Seven Motorcycle Storage Tips

Motorcycle Storage Tip #1- Fuel: The best and most logical place to begin your storage preparations for your custom chopper is with the fuel system. Because unleaded gasoline has a short shelf life of only three to four week before deterioration begins, the fuel must be stabilized. Consider this: unstabilized gasoline oxidizes and turns to a substance that is pretty much like varnish after a short period. Some folks think that draining the gas tank and float bowl is the best way to go to prevent sludge build up. In reality, it is all but impossible to completely drain the fuel from the carburetor jets and small lines. For this reason, fuel stabilization is a much better method to use. You can buy any reliable brand of fuel stabilizer and add the recommended amount to a full tank of gas. Run the engine for 15 minutes or more to get the stabilized fuel into all the parts throughout the engine and fuel system.

If the bike is not running, it is better to drain the fuel system, empty the carb and fill the tank with fresh fuel than to do nothing. This will help prevent corrosion.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #2- Oil:
Next, while the engine is still warm, change the oil to remove sludge that might deteriorate during storage. When you are ready to get up and riding again, you'll have fresh oil and not have to worry about this important maintenance step at that time. Of course, you should always use top-quality oil and you might consider using synthetic oil since this will last longer. Let the engine run for a short time to ensure that lubricant is distributed throughout the engine.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #3- Brake Fluid: If you haven't changed your brake fluid recently, this is a good time to take care of that. Dirty brake fluid can contribute to corrosion and cause the hydraulics to deteriorate. New brake fluid is light amber; if your fluid is dark or clouded, you definitely need to change the fluid by thoroughly flushing the system and filling with new brake fluid.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #4- Battery: For a long battery life, it is important to keep the battery charged if you are using the common lead-acid battery. If your custom chopper will be stored where freezing temperatures are possible, you will need to remove the battery from the motorcycle and store it in a dry place that will not reach below freezing temperatures. Do not place the battery on concrete; instead, store it on a work bench or other raised surface. You can obtain specialized chargers that will not overcharge your battery. A Battery Tender is one type of these products. If you use a trickle charger on the battery, you have to be sure not to overcharge the battery by running the trickle charger only one-half hour per day. To do this easily, set the charger up on a time that you can find at any large discount store at a reasonable price.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #5- Clean, Then Lubricate: Storing your motorcycle with road grime and grit is a sure way to start corrosion and cause damage. Before storing, clean your scoot thoroughly. Wash and dry it completely, then apply a coat of wax.

If you have a chain drive instead of a belt drive, lubricate the chain properly. All the moving parts like cables, pivot points, and center and side stand should be lubricated thoroughly. A good protectant spray made specifically for metal can be sprayed on the frame and drive train to prevent rust and potential pitting.

A word of warning: if you have a pearl effect paint job, never allow any petroleum-based lubricants or other products that contain petroleum or petroleum derivatives to touch your paint. Also, do not use WD-40 on any motorcycle anywhere. Buy the right products for the job; your bike is worth it.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #6- Tires: Check the air pressure in your tires and be sure they are inflated properly. For those who have an air compressor, you can deflate the tires and then refill them to get rid of any moisture that may have condensed inside the tire. If the custom chopper is going to be stored in freezing conditions, you need to get both tires off the ground so they do not have any load on them. This is a good idea even if the chop won't be stored in the cold, but it is crucial for cold storage. However you choose to raise your motorcycle, make absolutely certain it is secure and will not fall. Bottle jack lifts have failed under long use, so be careful about the method you choose to use for lifting the load from the tires.

Motorcycle Storage Tip #7- Cover: The last step is to cover your motorcycle for storage. Use a cover that allows air to pass in and out so that moisture will not condense and become trapped under the covering. Plastic tarps are famous for allowing condensation to occur. If you are storing your bike in a place that creatures could possibly get into the storage area, cover your exhaust ends with plastic bags to prevent anything from deciding that your pipes look like a good hiding spot.

So remember to follow each motorcycle storage tip every winter or before you store your bike for long periods of time. Also, as a disclaimer, we are not responsible for any damage that occurs as a result of following or not following the advice on this motorcycle storage tips article. But we feel that we've covered the most important aspects of proper motorcycle storage prepartion. Let us know if we have left anything out, and you want us to add any other tips.

kustommusic · Post by **kustommusic** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 2:36 pm

Skos, Thanks! Good Stuff. Kustommusic

Gun · Post by **Gun** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 4:37 pm

much of that sounds fine, cept for the oil tip: being that you only want to us 30w non-detergent on these bikes
and no brake fluid :p

I also wouldn't say getting as out of these bikes is too difficult as it's a pretty simple system. drain the gas and the bowls. take the tank and the carbs off and blow dry with an air gun.

i don't know squat about the battery, other than i left mine in my bike in my shed over the winter, threw the tender on the battery maybe twice over the few months for 45 min each time, and the battery has a good charge today. now that i'm thinking about the freezing temps, i probably would have removed it from the bike.

Goodysnap · Post by **Goodysnap** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 8:40 pm

I think for long term storage completely removing all the fuel is the best method. As far as the oil goes I cannot say I agree with running anything on oil that has been setting for a length of time. Depending on Storage and temp conditions Condensation can form and then you can have water in the oil. I would leave the oil in it and change it upon getting out of storage. Its probably a good idea to pull the plugs and add oil to the cylinders .

Gunner_CAF · Post by **Gunner_CAF** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 10:30 pm

I read some studies on long term storage of vehicles (5 years storage) when I was involved in design and construction of a long term equipment storage facility. The batteries on the vehicles were left in with a battery tender on. The battery tender would not charge, but pulsed the battery to prevent any buildup on the charge plates. These vehicles could be started and driven away like the day they went in.

If you live in an area where it freezes, I would recommend removing the charged battery and keeping in a heated place like in the tips you posted. If the battery discharges, the acid turns to water and could freeze in cold temperatures. If you plan to not use the battery for years, put a tender on it. If you don't have a tender, compare the price of the tender to a new battery. It may be more economical just to buy a new battery when you need it.

Gunner

skos · Post by **skos** » Fri Feb 13, 2009 11:27 pm

I live in Texas so cold is not an issue.

Here is what I am thinking. I bought a 1965 Honda CA77 Dream 305cc and a 1965 Honda CA95 Benly 160cc. They are both in real good shape. I want to completly restore them some day but for now I have a ledge above my door. I want to put them both up there(inside the house). Yes I am single(& loving it).

I do not have an AC outlet up there & I don't want to put one it. I may so I can put some lights on them but for now I will not. I do all my own work but I never put anything in long term storage.

WHat do you guys think. I can't think of any reason not to pull them.

Also if I drain the tanks and blow them out, do you think they will rust?

Gunner_CAF · Post by **Gunner_CAF** » Sat Feb 14, 2009 12:52 am

skos wrote:I live in Texas so cold is not an issue.

Here is what I am thinking. I bought a 1965 Honda CA77 Dream 305cc and a 1965 Honda CA95 Benly 160cc. They are both in real good shape. I want to completly restore them some day but for now I have a ledge above my door. I want to put them both up there(inside the house). Yes I am single(& loving it).

I do not have an AC outlet up there & I don't want to put one it. I may so I can put some lights on them but for now I will not. I do all my own work but I never put anything in long term storage.

WHat do you guys think. I can't think of any reason not to pull them.

Also if I drain the tanks and blow them out, do you think they will rust?

Cool idea :) If two plastic containers of battery acid above your doorway isn't a concern, then leave them in. I would remove all the fluids including the batteries. If you keep the relative humidity low it will help not to rust things, but a light coating of oil isn't a bad idea on any bare metal. I'm no expert on this, so maybe others have some good tips.

Gunner