Fork fluid

[skychs]

1967 CL77 305 Scrambler

From my searches..... I'm finding the total fork fluid amount to be 250cc's each side. If I'm just draining/refilling the shocks should I use a little less. If so how much?
Thanks

[skychs]

I just found this.

FORK OIL CAPACITIES - Per “Mr. Honda” Bill Silver, CB77 steel forks take 215_225cc of fork oil dry and 200_210 on refill (just drained). Alloy forks hold 185cc on refill and 200cc when dry. Bill recently used synthetic ATF fork oil in his CYP77 forks (after a rebuild) and it worked great! Any good medium grade fork oil will suffice.

(27). FRONT FORKS: “STUCK” FORKS - Due to rust & metal corrosion, the aluminum fork tubes are often STUCK in the lower fork (triple tree) clamps. To facilitate removal, recommend the following procedure: 1) apply a “super” lubricant / penetrating oil to the lower clamp / fork area .... & let it penetrate; 2) insert a screw driver or wedge in the lower clamp “slot” where the clamp bolts tighten to the fork tube (carefully pound a tool or wedge into the “slot” to expand the clamp & loosen same from the tube); 3) remove the alum. top fork bridge / clamp & fork oil cap / screws, and insert a “long” 10mm bolt into the fork tube ....... then use a mallet on the bolt head & pound the fork tube down & thru the lower fork clamp ........ use of a clamp / large plyers may be required to “work” the fork tube down & out of the lower clamp. BE SURE to avoid use of a clamp or plyers on any area where the fork tube slides thru the fork seal!! Use of a clamp or channel locks just below the point where the lower clamp meets the fork tube is advised. And, do NOT grip/clamp onto the aluminum tube with too much force. You can distort the tube.
Before reinstalling the fork tube, clean & remove all rust deposits & spurs (w/ emory paper) from the fork tube & lower clamp. On early “metal” forks, MAKE SURE to use the correct size (length) bolt for the drain hole (too long a bolt will damage the fork slider).
NOTE: Lower Fork (axle) Holders (secured by 2-each bolts, lock & flat washers) are installed with the “tallest” portion/part toward the front. Tighten the front bolt (tall end) of each side 1st & then “snug-up” the aft bolt on each side (short end of the holder). This procedure ensures the axle is SECURELY fastened in place w/ no chance of coming or working itself loose.