Oil ChangeOil ChangeI know I'm going to get flamed for this but I just bought a 1966 Dream and I have not the foggiest idea of how to change the oil on it. I've done my due diligence in trying to search for a link on how to do it but I can find one. I've seen how to remove the oil filter and clean it with the chain involved but that's about it. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
No flames here... ;) First, just drain the old oil. Best to do it after a ride when the oil is warm, so it drains more completely. Put a pan big enough to catch a couple quarts under it and remove the drain plug with a 17mm wrench.
If you want to clean the oil filter (spinner) remove the three screws and cover on the left side. If it's a '66 that should reveal a hole big enough to take the filter out of. You'll likely need a hand impact driver to get those screws out unless they've been replaced with allen head bolts. Once those are out, there's two small slots for screwdrivers where you can begin to pry the cover off a little at a time. There are two large O-rings on the cover, one of which will fight you. There should also be a centering dowel (knock pin) on one of the screws. After that, you can pull the spinner shaft out a half inch or so (out of its hole in the crankcase) and use it to hold the spinner assembly while you unhook the chain. Now you can remove the entire assembly. Leave the chain hooked on the crank sprocket. There's a small pin near the end of the shaft, it's usually in there pretty tight, but sometimes not, so be careful not to lose it. There should also be a washer between that pin and the spinner. Remove the retaining ring from the front of the spinner and then drive the cover off from behind with a wooden dowel. There's a thin O-ring on the cover. Once apart, clean everything up and reassemble with a new O-ring if needed (put the O-ring on the cover and push the cover on, don't put the O-ring in the spinner). Make sure the retaining ring is seated in it's groove. Sometimes it helps to lightly compress the assembly with a c-clamp to fully reveal the groove. Don't go overboard here, just a little pressure. Insert the shaft and make sure the washer is between the pin and the cover. Now the tricky part... Put the assembly back inside, holding it by the shaft as close to the crankshaft sprocket as possible. You'll see the issue now, so put that down and go bend up some wire to loop the chain around the spinner sprocket. Once engaged, you can move the spinner back to the left, tighten the chain and fully insert the shaft back into the crankcase. Make sure the pin in the shaft is at 12 o-clock so it goes into the slot in the outer cover when you put that back on. One last check to make sure that washer is between the spinner and the pin and then put the cover back on. Line up the knock pin, then it usually takes a couple of schmacks with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet. The dipstick is behind the left carb cover. Takes about 1.5L (48 oz.) of 30W oil. Note that you don't screw the dipstick in to check it. I think only one of the O-rings that you encountered are still available from Honda but should be available from Ohio Cycle and maybe Northeast Vintage Cycle. The whole thing isn't as hard as this makes it sound, just give it a try, and if you get stuck, someone here will help. -48
I'll offer to help one more time. ......lm
Re: Oil ChangeYou might want to consider dropping the oil pump and cleaning the strainer. Mine was so clogged that the dipstick indicated full, while the drain plug was out and no oil was draining.
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
