Bolt Broke When Tightening Exhaust Flange Keepers

[mason123h]

Hello, last night while I was tightening the flange keepers on the exhaust system of m CA78, one of the bolts coming out of the block snapped off. I am almost positive that there is not enough of the bolt left to safely bolt the flange keepers on.
Is there anyway that I can fix this problem? Is there a way to disassemble to block and replace that piece?

Thanks for the help!

[LOUD MOUSE]

What is the broken part??????????????. ...........lm

Hello, last night while I was tightening the flange keepers on the exhaust system of m CA78, one of the bolts coming out of the block snapped off. I am almost positive that there is not enough of the bolt left to safely bolt the flange keepers on.
Is there anyway that I can fix this problem? Is there a way to disassemble to block and replace that piece?

Thanks for the help!

[mason123h]

It is the threaded part where the flange keepers on are tightened onto by nuts. Right on the front of the block, the exhaust manifold. One of those stems where the flange keepers fit onto was broken.

[LOUD MOUSE]

If there isn't any of the stud long enough to get vise-grip pliers on you will need to drill it out.
If you mess up the hole a helicoil works. ............lm

It is the threaded part where the flange keepers on are tightened onto by nuts. Right on the front of the block, the exhaust manifold. One of those stems where the flange keepers fit onto was broken.

[cadman]

First - it isn't a bolt but a stud. It is in the cylinder head not the block.
Second - very unusual to break one while normally tightening - usually is broken when the nut is frozen on and you are trying to remove it. So the assumption is you were tightening too much.
Third - If you are lucky there is enough of the stud sticking out to get vise grips on it and remove it. You should soak it with something to hopefully loosen it a bit (PB Blaster or ???) then apply some heat - heat gun or propane torch. Heat the aluminum head around the bolt.
Fourth - try removal very carefully - if you break the stud off next to the cylinder head it will require drilling and trying to remove with an easy-out. This is not an easy task.

There are two different materials - aluminum cylinder head and steel stud. Very common for these two metals to seize - especially if they have been together for a long time and subject to heating and cooling cycles. Generally I always use Never-Seize on parts like these when reassembling.

If there is enough stud protruding to catch 2/3 of the nut then you can probably get by doing nothing.

[malcolmgb]

Something I have heard done is welding a nut to the broken stud using MIG the heat generated helps de-seize and you have a hex head to use a spanner/socket.