Chasing Carb issues - High IdleChasing Carb issues - High IdleHey everyone...been awhile since I've checked in. I've been working on the CL for over a year now. Getting close to having it running well...but I've been chasing carb gremlins for over a month now.
Here is what the bike looks like now...the fenders were chopped due to the PO riveting sheet metal to the fenders to make them look original...I removed the sheet metal. Right now, I'm chasing down carb issues. With the choke on/closed...the bike idles around 1200. As soon as I open the choke, the idle races to about 2500. Here is a video.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwdcRm ... e=youtu.be I slacked the throttle cable at every adjuster. I have the mixture screws set at 1 1/4 turns out. I have the idle/slide screws all the way out so the slides hit the bottom. Needle clip is in the middle/third setting. I've shot WD40 around the insulators and there has been no change in idle. It appears as though the PO sanded the slides. Maybe this is creating a lean condition? I had one non-sanded slide, so I installed it. No change. Here are what my plugs look like. This is after the low and high idle cycles...and a few revs. This is not showing signs of actual riding. Both plugs are obviously wet...but the plug on the left only seems wet on the electrode, whereas the plug on the right it wet all over.
Have you used the info in the yellow section FAQ and How I Tune My Engine?. ...........lm
Definitely. I've read up on info from Ed Moore and Bill Silver. I've been doing a lot of reading over the past year...and re-reading. The valves were adjusted to spec...but a little on the loose side since they tend to tighten over time. I'm running Charile's Place e-ignition, with the left firing at LF when at TDC of the intake stroke...then rotate 180 and the right fires at TDC on F. Float height could be looked at. I've read 22MM or 26.5MM depending on the carbs. Mine have "26" stamped on the side. According to what I've read, those require the 22MM float height...which seems almost impossible to achieve and would require the tang on the float to be bent in the negative direction. Carbs have been synched, both by watching the slides and by watching the needle move with the jet removed. Thanks for any insight guys....
http://www.honda305.com/forums/carb-flo ... ight=float
This has Ed's method of setting the floats. It's easy and it works. HT
I see you are not actually using my adjustment technique and I wish you good luck as you pic what you think will work and so far not good. ......lm
lm - can you elaborate? were you referencing my post? I'm not seeing how I'm not following your instructions...other than the fact that I have an e-ignition instead of points. I synched the carbs both by watching and feeling the slides. I bottomed out the slides, then turned the slide screws a few turns in. I set the mixture screw to about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out from bottom. Choke at 3/4 close when starting. I'm definitely off on my float heights. When reading this post from you: "I have a simple way to set the floats on the CB/CL77 carbs. With the bowls removed and also the main jet I look across the bottoms of the floats and set the float tang to just touch the needle valve at the same time I just see the brass main jet holder. ...................lm" I think I understand. So I remove the bowls and main jets, in my case, the 135 jets, but leave the brass jet holder screwed into the carb body. At this point, I need to push the floats upward. If the float tang starts pressing the float valve plunger in before I see main jet holder, the my floats are too low. Vise versa, if I can see the main jet holder before the tang stars pushing the plunger in, then my float level is too high. Am I understanding you correctly. Thanks!
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