Ok, Well I changed the plugs with auto lights, wow what a difference. The fouled plugs were defiantly killing me. Only problem is with the idle screw 1 turn out it idled way to fast. I had to turn it out probably 6 times before it held a slow enough idle. I know turning it out this far is not good, I guess there must be a problem else ware, but I have no clue.
So after I got that idle down took it for a ride. I had tons of power and the bike felt awesome. However after a while when I was cursing it would loose power and lung a lot. I think the is from it miss firering, but I’m not sure. It still accelerates fast, but the lunging problem is very troubling.
Dream lost it's midrange power :(
Well i just pulled the plug on the right side. Black, Way more carbon then the plugs i just pulled.
I will have to get the NKG's, but i'm not sure if that will help much. Also i read to gap them at .018" My spark plug gaper wouldn't go downt that much so just hit them on the ground till a feller gague showed that's what it was. Not the best method. Atleast i got to ride the thing for a while. It had tons of power unlike before, but the plugs fouled quickly. 1965 CA77 Dream, Black
Ryan-I use the D8HA's-Gap should be .024-.028.NGK web site actually lists .028 for their plug.I get mine from Advance Auto parts.They usually have to order them in a day or less.Get two sets.I also had a lunging problem at full throttle only.I could only run at about 3/4 throttle.This I found was due to the carb. running out of gas.I had rebuilt my carb with a Keyster kit from Ebay and the jets they send are different than the originals.The float needle jet was smaller and this was not allowing enough fuel to the bowl at full throttle, so I put the larger old one back in after I made sure it was clean and used the new float needle.This fixed my surging.This could also be your timing too advanced.Did you static time the points opening when the pointer is on the "F"??I use an ohm meter.Put one lead to the points and one to ground.You must first adjust points gap and then disconnect the the other wire from the condensor that is connected closest to the one air breather tube.I then turn rotor until the "F" mark is lines up with pointer , then adjust points plate until I just get no continuity which means points are open.Tearing carb out is next.
Ryan-The timing marks are on the rotor.You need to take off the round stator cover by the rear brake pedal.You will see the timing marks. "F" for fire and "T" for top dead center.Do you have a copy of an owners maual?This shows the basic timing adjustments and valve adjustments.While your waiting for plugs adjust your points gap to .012-.014(you are on the high point of the cam when adjusting right?)Then do the timing check.Use a 14mm wrench to slowly turn the rotor(clockwise) and when the pointer( you will see it when you take the cover off) just lines up with the "F" the points should just begin to open.Like I stated earlier I use a ohmmeter to see them open.You need to loosen the two phillips screws on the points plate to rotate the plate to get the points to open at the correct time.I do not know how to put photos on here, but if you want to give out your private e-mail I could shoot you some pictures of what I'm talking about.
Ryan-One other tidbit.You said you had to turn the idle screw way out to slow down idle.You are aware there is an adjustment up where the cable goes thru the frame right? You may want to check that.You really should not have to turn your idle screw that far out.Make sure the two halves of the outer casing are seated properly where they join there at the frame.
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||