If I'm not too late try - https://www.lambertsbikes.co.uk Very helpfull and knowledgeable.
Supplied me with a solid state full wave rectifier for£12.00 inc post, which charges a treat and in a modern way.
You can find the pink you will need inside the boot/sleeve just above the gear box.
Aside, just done the Colombres Rally. Didn't pink or miss a beat with the altitude and climbing stuff. Unlike my former buddies (yes, we are enemies now) 650 BSA Spitfire. Talk about hot and bothered !
Will heaven be so good. I doubt it.
Stator woesStatorSorry I led you a bit astray in the first post - comes from working the early 4 cylinder bikes.
The stator has 6 coils (actually 3 pair of 2). One pair of coils are wired directly to the rectifier (Yellow). The remaining 2 pair (4 coils) are wired to the ignition switch (pink) and route power to the rectifier when the switch is in the headlight position. This was done because there is no regulator. In theory if all the output went directly to the battery the voltaqe would be too high and "cook" the battery. That may have worked fine when they were new but everyone I have tested would barely produce 12.5VDC at any RPM. The alternator is just like any alternator - they output AC power which must be converted to DC (rectifier) before it can be used. The best test of the alternator is the AC voltage output. In this case two wires exit the alternator and testing across these two wires (at the plug) has to produce AC voltage. Note the the stator must also have a good ground. In the early 4 cylinder models they produced enough AC power to melt the plastic plug between the alternator and regulator/rectifier. The service manual says 2-3 Amps charging is within spec. The headlight alone will take that much. Some folks have wired in aftermarket solid state rectifiers which will work but there is still no regulation. I like to use a Kohler solid state regulator/rectifier and wire all output to it. Quite so. I'm not an electrician so quoting Lamberts, "All three phases must work in unison for full output to be achieved".
They aren't in the original scheme of things so only put out a much lower voltage. When they are, as with mine, 14.5volts shows on the meter without reving, should the battery need it. When I said rectifier I should have said, solid state regulator/rectifier for £12.00. As said, you just need to re-route the pink to give the full three phase output. Sorted.
Oh dear guys & gals, I'm not sure how to put this, shall we say I might have reached 'that time of life', and I'm going to have to do 'THE WALK OF SHAME'!!
Messing with something-else on the bike this morning, I thought 'hang on a minute', another poster mentioned 'AC' & I never thought of that!! My 'posh' meter was on auto, & I assumed it would work it out, but it has switchable ac/dc, so I tried it on ac, fired her up, hooked up the wires & got voltages above battery voltage that increased with rpm!! So dear Honder-ites, I did it RIGHT, but also got it so WRONG. Just awaiting the new regulator/rectifier & we'll see what else I can screw up. GSX1400 Red/silver
GSX1400 Blue GS1000G Brockhouse Corgi CB77 CA77 T140 BSA 250 I DO have to grow old, I DO NOT have to grow up.
Update, the new regulator/rectifier arrived so I stripped out the old bracket, folded up new tinware & plumbed it in, hooked up the revised wiring, fired her up & we are showing 14 plus volts, so I'm happy with that, thanks to all who helped.
GSX1400 Red/silver
GSX1400 Blue GS1000G Brockhouse Corgi CB77 CA77 T140 BSA 250 I DO have to grow old, I DO NOT have to grow up.
Billiam a couple of my friends also did the Colombres Rally here is a link to the report including pictures, the outcome was not good unfortunately. http://burtonsectionvmcc.co.uk/eventrep ... _rally.htm 1977 CB400F
1973 CL175 1976 XL175 - Sold 1964 CL72 1966 CA78
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