engine build - slowly but surely

[Tim Miller]

Dick,

Yes, all 3 angles do come in on stock valve size with the New3Acut. You just have to set the cutters right. The problem is usually pitting. That's when having a oversize valve can really help without having to sink the valve. I have some nos 27.5mm ex. Valves that are probably aftermarket? THey have HM 72B markings w/ 7mm stems. For hot rods l use 27.5 & 33mm w/5mm stems. I don't know of any already on the shelf for sale but I'm looking into making some thin stem kits with o/S head. But for now, I buy blanks from Kibblewhite and machine them.
If you want pics of my setup PM me and l will email you.

Tim

[Dick Eastman]

Thanks, Tim. PM sent.

[Dick Eastman]

Doing a little carb tuning, as I wasn't quite happy with other settings. I used Ed Moore's float setting recommendation, ie, floats even with edge of jet holder; works out to be about 25mm up from "notch" in carb body. This also works out to approx. 35ml in bowl, vs 42ml at 22.5mm float ht.
I initially set slide cut out at 1/8" above bore with a 1/8 drill shank, circlip in 2nd ring groove up from bottom of needle, and 140 mains. These settings worked well with Dunstall type Emgo when I ran this bike 2 yrs ago in stock trim. The nagging problem I have been having since rebuild was the idle, plus having to find an advance setting with the crank-mounted ignition. [9 are available with the turn of a screw]

I hooked up the oil manometer, and my initial settings weren't even close, especially the idle screws and the slide stops. It ran very rich at 1 1/4 turns out, and I ended up with about 2 1/4. The transition to mid range is much crisper. I sync'd the carbs at 3000, then adjusted the idle mix. I also have to run the idle rpm a little higher, [about 1400] as I turned down the OD of the crank flywheels about 4mm, and am also running Kenig high compression pistons. The carb manifolds have vacuum fittings I previously installed, and from the pics, the manometer lines can be seen.

[G-Man]

Nice to see your update, Dick.

I built a manometer like that fro tuning my CB400F carbs. I had all four pipes joined to one manifold so it acted like an averaging device. It is very educational when you see the vacuum changes throughout the rev range.

Great pictures. Love all the red bits!

G

Doing a little carb tuning, as I wasn't quite happy with other settings. I used Ed Moore's float setting recommendation, ie, floats even with edge of jet holder; works out to be about 25mm up from "notch" in carb body. This also works out to approx. 35ml in bowl, vs 42ml at 22.5mm float ht.
I initially set slide cut out at 1/8" above bore with a 1/8 drill shank, circlip in 2nd ring groove up from bottom of needle, and 140 mains. These settings worked well with Dunstall type Emgo when I ran this bike 2 yrs ago in stock trim. The nagging problem I have been having since rebuild was the idle, plus having to find an advance setting with the crank-mounted ignition. [9 are available with the turn of a screw]

I hooked up the oil manometer, and my initial settings weren't even close, especially the idle screws and the slide stops. It ran very rich at 1 1/4 turns out, and I ended up with about 2 1/4. The transition to mid range is much crisper. I sync'd the carbs at 3000, then adjusted the idle mix. I also have to run the idle rpm a little higher, [about 1400] as I turned down the OD of the crank flywheels about 4mm, and am also running Kenig high compression pistons. The carb manifolds have vacuum fittings I previously installed, and from the pics, the manometer lines can be seen.

[Muddy]

Wow - that is looking fantastic. Can't wait to see the pictures when it is finished.

[Dick Eastman]

Nice to see your update, Dick.

I built a manometer like that fro tuning my CB400F carbs. I had all four pipes joined to one manifold so it acted like an averaging device. It is very educational when you see the vacuum changes throughout the rev range.

Great pictures. Love all the red bits!

G

Doing a little carb tuning, as I wasn't quite happy with other settings. I used Ed Moore's float setting recommendation, ie, floats even with edge of jet holder; works out to be about 25mm up from "notch" in carb body. This also works out to approx. 35ml in bowl, vs 42ml at 22.5mm float ht.
I initially set slide cut out at 1/8" above bore with a 1/8 drill shank, circlip in 2nd ring groove up from bottom of needle, and 140 mains. These settings worked well with Dunstall type Emgo when I ran this bike 2 yrs ago in stock trim. The nagging problem I have been having since rebuild was the idle, plus having to find an advance setting with the crank-mounted ignition. [9 are available with the turn of a screw]

I hooked up the oil manometer, and my initial settings weren't even close, especially the idle screws and the slide stops. It ran very rich at 1 1/4 turns out, and I ended up with about 2 1/4. The transition to mid range is much crisper. I sync'd the carbs at 3000, then adjusted the idle mix. I also have to run the idle rpm a little higher, [about 1400] as I turned down the OD of the crank flywheels about 4mm, and am also running Kenig high compression pistons. The carb manifolds have vacuum fittings I previously installed, and from the pics, the manometer lines can be seen.

Thanks, Graham. Hard for me to tune any other way. Manometer so inexpensive to build, easy to use. I've used this set on a 1200 Kaw 4-cyl, on a BMW R60, and now this. Just when you think the bike is dialed in, then attach the manometer, it can be seen how much closer it an be sync'd with this tool. Yes, very educational, indeed.

[Dick Eastman]

Wow - that is looking fantastic. Can't wait to see the pictures when it is finished.[/quote/]

Thanks, Muddy.
There are some finished pics about 4 or 5 pages back.