darboots - 1961 CA77 from boxes

[darboots]

Yes. They went to 12mm D8XX. ...................lm

Does it have 10mm plugs?. ....................;lm

So, the green wire from the ignition switch is 12v live when the keyswitch is in positions for lighting (III & IV). I assume therefore, that one of the two wires to connect there is the light switch feed, and the other must be for the pilot light/speedo backlight? I'm still unsure how to connect in the high beam indicator as this is a '61 bike and therefore shouldn't have one in the speedo.

In other developments, I've set all the static timing, and after many incidents of the carb over-flowing (stuck floats), cannot get the bike to start. I don't seem to have a fat spark on either plug, but do get a spark. Plugs are CR8EB - D8HA's do not fit - is this because the early bikes used a different head? What plugs should be there?

I'm not convinced I'm getting fuel/air into the cylinders, although the float height is set to ~26.5mm (PW22). The PO seems to have fitted new jets throughout, but I've also ordered a jet cleaner so I can poke any debris out of the jets as all parts of the bike have all sat around for ~5-10 years.

Yeah, 10mm thread size. Was this changed on later models?

Thanks LM.

So is the CR8x the recommended plug for the earlier CA77 models?

[LOUD MOUSE]

Parts book shows C10H. ............lm

Yes. They went to 12mm D8XX. ...................lm

Does it have 10mm plugs?. ....................;lm

So, the green wire from the ignition switch is 12v live when the keyswitch is in positions for lighting (III & IV). I assume therefore, that one of the two wires to connect there is the light switch feed, and the other must be for the pilot light/speedo backlight? I'm still unsure how to connect in the high beam indicator as this is a '61 bike and therefore shouldn't have one in the speedo.

In other developments, I've set all the static timing, and after many incidents of the carb over-flowing (stuck floats), cannot get the bike to start. I don't seem to have a fat spark on either plug, but do get a spark. Plugs are CR8EB - D8HA's do not fit - is this because the early bikes used a different head? What plugs should be there?

I'm not convinced I'm getting fuel/air into the cylinders, although the float height is set to ~26.5mm (PW22). The PO seems to have fitted new jets throughout, but I've also ordered a jet cleaner so I can poke any debris out of the jets as all parts of the bike have all sat around for ~5-10 years.

Yeah, 10mm thread size. Was this changed on later models?

Thanks LM.

So is the CR8x the recommended plug for the earlier CA77 models?

[darboots]

Parts book shows C10H. ............lm

Many thanks LM.

Now, how to get the blasted thing running... :)

[darboots]

I must be doing something wrong! I cannot get the bike to fire and run.

New plugs (C-10H) are in. They are 'racing' plugs and have the earth electrode 'inside' the bottom of the plug where the plug 'nose' is. That's fine, but it cannot be gapped. However, the spark is good and strong.

I seem to be unable to get the timing/points set-up according to what I read on the forum, in the Owners Manual, or in Bill Silver's restoration guides.

The points (Denso back plate) have been gapped to 0.35mm.

First picture (below) shows a scratch mark (red arrow) made by a previous owner. I imagine this was done to give him/her a rough starting point for static timing? The green arrow points to the cast adjustment block for the back plate. Is this the correct position in relation to the screwdriver notches either side?



With the points plate in the position as per the above picture, and with a test lamp connected across the points, the timing light just comes on when the rotor reaches the points between II and TF as shown below. I think the light should come on just as it reaches the 'F'.



If I put the rotor on 'F', the points plate has to be rotated hard clockwise in order to get the lamp just on, but the plate looks like it's too far clockwise as below. (Two Red arrows show P.O. timing marks, green shows cast adjustment block).



No matter whether the points plate is in either position, the engine tries to fire but never catches. The carb float height has been checked and is 26.5 +/- 0.5, but still drips fuel from the over-flow tube. All jets have been run through with a carb jet tool. Air screw is 1.125 turns out.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the bike to start before I take a hammer to the head?

[LOUD MOUSE]

I can help.
Call me at 830-895-0654 or give me your number andd I'll call you. .............lm

I must be doing something wrong! I cannot get the bike to fire and run.

New plugs (C-10H) are in. They are 'racing' plugs and have the earth electrode 'inside' the bottom of the plug where he 'nose' is. That's fine, but it cannot be gapped. However, the spark is good and strong.

I seem to be unable to get the timing/points set-up according to what I read on the forum, in the Owners Manual, or in Bill Silver's restoration guides.

The points (Denso back plate) have been gapped to 0.35mm.

First picture (below) shows a scratch mark (red arrow) made by a previous owner. I imagine this was done to give him/her a rough starting point for static timing? The green arrow points to the cast adjustment block for the back plate. Is this the correct position in relation to the screwdriver notches either side?



With the points plate in the position as per the above picture, and with a test lamp connected across the points, the timing light just comes on when the rotor reaches the points between II and TF as shown below. I think the light should come on just as it reaches the 'F'.



If I put the rotor on 'F', the points plate has to be rotated hard clockwise in order to get the lamp just on, but the plate looks like it's too far clockwise as below. (Two Red arrows show P.O. timing marks, green shows cast adjustment block).



No matter whether the points plate is in either position, the engine tries to fire but never catches. The carb float height has been checked and is 26.5 +/- 0.5, but still drips fuel from the over-flow tube. All jets have been run through with a carb jet tool. Air screw is 1.125 turns out.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the bike to start before I take a hammer to the head?

[darboots]

I can help.
Call me at 830-895-0654 or give me your number andd I'll call you. .............lm

I must be doing something wrong! I cannot get the bike to fire and run.

New plugs (C-10H) are in. They are 'racing' plugs and have the earth electrode 'inside' the bottom of the plug where he 'nose' is. That's fine, but it cannot be gapped. However, the spark is good and strong.

I seem to be unable to get the timing/points set-up according to what I read on the forum, in the Owners Manual, or in Bill Silver's restoration guides.

The points (Denso back plate) have been gapped to 0.35mm.

First picture (below) shows a scratch mark (red arrow) made by a previous owner. I imagine this was done to give him/her a rough starting point for static timing? The green arrow points to the cast adjustment block for the back plate. Is this the correct position in relation to the screwdriver notches either side?



With the points plate in the position as per the above picture, and with a test lamp connected across the points, the timing light just comes on when the rotor reaches the points between II and TF as shown below. I think the light should come on just as it reaches the 'F'.



If I put the rotor on 'F', the points plate has to be rotated hard clockwise in order to get the lamp just on, but the plate looks like it's too far clockwise as below. (Two Red arrows show P.O. timing marks, green shows cast adjustment block).


No matter whether the points plate is in either position, the engine tries to fire but never catches. The carb float height has been checked and is 26.5 +/- 0.5, but still drips fuel from the over-flow tube. All jets have been run through with a carb jet tool. Air screw is 1.125 turns out.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the bike to start before I take a hammer to the head?

That's very kind of you LM. I'm based in the UK, and currently am without a land-line (engineer due on Monday). Do the above suggest the valve timing could be out? - (I didn't rebuild the engine myself).

[LOUD MOUSE]

Any reason you set the points that wide?
Try this.
Set points at .014 and do the other the way you have. ...................lm


quote="darboots"]

I can help.
Call me at 830-895-0654 or give me your number andd I'll call you. .............lm

I must be doing something wrong! I cannot get the bike to fire and run.

New plugs (C-10H) are in. They are 'racing' plugs and have the earth electrode 'inside' the bottom of the plug where he 'nose' is. That's fine, but it cannot be gapped. However, the spark is good and strong.

I seem to be unable to get the timing/points set-up according to what I read on the forum, in the Owners Manual, or in Bill Silver's restoration guides.

The points (Denso back plate) have been gapped to 0.35mm.

First picture (below) shows a scratch mark (red arrow) made by a previous owner. I imagine this was done to give him/her a rough starting point for static timing? The green arrow points to the cast adjustment block for the back plate. Is this the correct position in relation to the screwdriver notches either side?



With the points plate in the position as per the above picture, and with a test lamp connected across the points, the timing light just comes on when the rotor reaches the points between II and TF as shown below. I think the light should come on just as it reaches the 'F'.



If I put the rotor on 'F', the points plate has to be rotated hard clockwise in order to get the lamp just on, but the plate looks like it's too far clockwise as below. (Two Red arrows show P.O. timing marks, green shows cast adjustment block).


No matter whether the points plate is in either position, the engine tries to fire but never catches. The carb float height has been checked and is 26.5 +/- 0.5, but still drips fuel from the over-flow tube. All jets have been run through with a carb jet tool. Air screw is 1.125 turns out.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to get the bike to start before I take a hammer to the head?

That's very kind of you LM. I'm based in the UK, and currently am without a land-line (engineer due on Monday). Do the above suggest the valve timing could be out? - (I didn't rebuild the engine myself).[/quote]