Hi guys,
I'm wondering if anyone can offer tips on how to protect the surface of the wheel hubs after polishing.
I cleaned up my hubs using a die grinder followed by hand polishing with Mother's Aluminum Polish and ScotchBrite. My goal was not to create a mirror finish but rather more of a matte gray finish. Anyway, once I got them where I wanted them, I wiped them down with alcohol and I applied a satin lacquer out of a rattle can.
Today I was planning on re-lacing the wheels but noticed the lacquer is not sticking to the aluminum and will rather easily flake off using my finger nail.
The particular lacquer I was using is for wooden furniture but I read somewhere that this type of lacquer would work on metal as well.
So, now that this failed I am asking; Is a lacquer made for metal the way to go? Are there different material to use instead, such as urethane? What have others used with good results?
Thanks!
Paul
Beginning RestorationHi Paul, in the 1970-80's, Yamaha had a great clear in a spray can (probably developed for all of their polished brass musical instruments), but it doesn't appear to be available any longer. Consider removing your current lacquer, re-polish with the Mothers, then a final polish with Flitz metal polish (as seen on late-night TV). Marine supply places usually carry it, and some Ace hardware stores. It will slightly dull the finish, but it has a wax content for longer lasting protection. Another choice is after the Mothers, wipe the parts down with a slight amount of ACF50 on a paper towel. This preserves the finish, removes any corrosion, and prevents any surface deterioration. Also great for non=polished surfaces, like the engine cases. Developed for the aircraft industry, it is intended for the cleaning and protection of all non-ferrous surfaces. Probably one of the few products I've encountered that totally lives up to it's billing. Here in the great Florida humidity and salt air, I have hubs (and other pieces) that get wiped down a few times a year with the ACF50, and they really haven't changed in 5-6 years. Regards, Chase
Hi Chase
Thanks for the advice, but I am hoping to find a more permanent coating. After scouring the internet, I found something that looks like it might work, although expensive ($28 for a 12 oz. can + $18 shipping). It is called Permalac and designed for metal. I ordered a can, lets hope it works! I will check out the ACF50 you suggested. I will try that on the engine casings. Thanks, I'll let you know how the Permalac turns out. Paul Just an update regarding trying to give my hubs a protective coating; the Permalac product that I tried didn't seem to stick any better that than the run-of -the-mill spray on lacquer that I had tried. My recommendation is to save your money. I battled with this issue for over a month an have decided to proceed au natural.
I will try to post pics of my progress tonight after work.... Paul So, as promised, here are a couple of pics to show the progress I have made. I have the rims re-laced after chroming, the wire harness is redone and in place. Next up is the back wheel and attached paraphernalia....
 DSC00451 by Honda Paul, on Flickr DSC00445 by Honda Paul, on Flickr
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