67 CL77 maiden voyage

[LOUD MOUSE]

Not only do I agree and I think the other "LF".
Thanks! *)__(^$^_&&^%&439528=34. .........lm

I'll go by memory so I believe as you turn the rotor clockwise you want the light to come on at "T" and it will stay on for part of a revolution.
You don't care if it does as the important thing is it COMES ON AT "T".
And you have locked the plate to the head.
Turn rotor clockwise and move light to left points and adjust points to light on at "LT" and lock points.
The timing will change at times as you tighten the screws so you will need to "tighten/adjust" until the timing is Dead ON. .............lm

Ed - I think "T" should be "F".

[ugmold]

This is what I was going by: http://www.honda305.com/cb77_700/cb77-716.htm

To Answer LM's question, I haven't done any work to the engine, rings etc.
Didn't mention that I did also Adjust the valves.

Ok. Now I followed the recipe and got everything about as close as possible. Starts on 1st kick, Ran it and it felt a little better just around the neighborhood. Got off felt for the heat of the pipes, right much hotter than left. So I thought somehow when it is running the left doesn't fire. I hitched an extra plug up to the left side and started it up and it sparked away like it should.

Here is my latest guess. The left carb is not doing it's job at "atomizing" the fuel. I think it is like drooling in and not combusting.....just a guess.
-Forrest

[OldScrambler]

Assuming spark timing is OK...............You may have very low compression on the left. Will the motor run on that cylinder alone? Can you do a compression test...........leak-down test..........are you sure the valves are sealing?

[ugmold]

Assuming spark timing is OK...............You may have very low compression on the left. Will the motor run on that cylinder alone? Can you do a compression test...........leak-down test..........are you sure the valves are sealing?

Hi Old Scrambler. Last night Loud Mouse was nice enough to talk to me on the phone and we went over a few things.
The result of the conversation was 1. Adjust Float (they needed it)
and 2. Use a 12volt bulb instead of the high voltage pointy screwdriver with light in handle that I was using.

So I redid the timing (that is tough to get it it right on, perhaps my backing plate could use a replacement) Cleaned out carbs again, float height adjustment looked good.

Started on 1st kick as usual. And there was some blue smoke, I figured that Left side must be kicking in. Went around the neighborhood and it felt much stronger, but not smooth, by the time I got back to the house it felt like it did previous. Grabbed the helmet for a real ride hoping it might kick in, but I'm guessing I was on one cylinder, but felt a little stronger than before, turned around, and waiting at a light it died. Pulled over and removed a plug, 1st a spark then nothing, battery went dead again. So this is another problem.

Pushed it home on the first day we break 80 degrees, lol.

Compression could be it, I did the thumb over spark plug hole thing...not much of a test.

I have a cheap-o compression tester, I'll drag it out. Almost scared to.

That last comment when I bought the bike was that it was running when it was put away, doesn't mean much I know.
-Forrest

[LOUD MOUSE]

I'd check the compression for sure even if you have a Cheep-O gauge. (full open the carb slides)
May need help to hold the gauge as you kick it through.
Do I recall you adjusted the valves?
That's another place to check. .004 .....................lm

Assuming spark timing is OK...............You may have very low compression on the left. Will the motor run on that cylinder alone? Can you do a compression test...........leak-down test..........are you sure the valves are sealing?

Hi Old Scrambler. Last night Loud Mouse was nice enough to talk to me on the phone and we went over a few things.
The result of the conversation was 1. Adjust Float (they needed it)
and 2. Use a 12volt bulb instead of the high voltage pointy screwdriver with light in handle that I was using.

So I redid the timing (that is tough to get it it right on, perhaps my backing plate could use a replacement) Cleaned out carbs again, float height adjustment looked good.

Started on 1st kick as usual. And there was some blue smoke, I figured that Left side must be kicking in. Went around the neighborhood and it felt much stronger, but not smooth, by the time I got back to the house it felt like it did previous. Grabbed the helmet for a real ride hoping it might kick in, but I'm guessing I was on one cylinder, but felt a little stronger than before, turned around, and waiting at a light it died. Pulled over and removed a plug, 1st a spark then nothing, battery went dead again. So this is another problem.

Pushed it home on the first day we break 80 degrees, lol.

Compression could be it, I did the thumb over spark plug hole thing...not much of a test.

I have a cheap-o compression tester, I'll drag it out. Almost scared to.

That last comment when I bought the bike was that it was running when it was put away, doesn't mean much I know.
-Forrest

[ugmold]

I didn't have the right size adapter for my "PitBull" compression tester for the "D" size plug (is that right?)

Went back to the thumb test, just to see how the 2 feel, and they seem about the same, I know means nothing.

Now the electrical battery drain issue. With the battery (new) hitched up still on the bike, key off, it was steady around 11.46. This is after the bike went dead at the traffic light. With key on, bike not running, I watched the volts go down, down, down fast.

Now I have this off-on-off aftermarket switch the PO put on, and I have wanted to ditch it since I bought the bike, it is hitched up to what looks like the same wire at both connections, the wire is white under a braided red cloth cover. The odd thing is, is that there are lugs on the ends of both white wires which the PO soldered to.
Pics: http://www.goomer.com/honda/cl77.html
You can the 2 bright yellow fat wires in the battery area that comes from the switch, switch can be seen 4th image down.

I'm going to look for a schematic.

[OldScrambler]

Your left carb may be leaking air.............do not over-tighten the studs..........just snug. With bike running, spray some WD40 on the carb and on the intake connections........watch for vacuum leaches.

"if you can't fix it with a hammer, it must be electrical" seems to apply. I can only recommend the OEM switch and wire-harness with clean connections at ALL junctions to assure proper voltage is going to the coils.......and not to ground.

I have a few spare parts............but Mr. Loud Mouse will best get you out on the road......and RIDING back home.