moondoggers wrote:Gave them a tug with a 14 mm box-end.
Don't own a torque wrench, I'll leave it to the mechanic that's 500 miles west of me to make it right!
Besides the oil drip the kick start lever broke Saturday morning, kinda ruined my day, this is a fresh rebuilt motor.
I expect it to last longer than 42 miles and 10 prods on the starter.
Oil drip at exhaust ports
What part broke?. .....lm
Must be the gear that mates with the splines on the transmission shaft.
I kicked it over and the kick lever didn't return while the motor was running, just hangs there like a wet noodle but it does come back up part way with some help. This motor is too fresh for stuff like this to happen, it's on the mechanic to make it right. The attached picture is the bike as it looks today, it's a bitsa bike, and thanks for the exhaust pipes they worked out well.
66' CL77, 63' CB77, 73' Jawa 350/ model 362 Californian 65' Jawa 250/model 590 07' Moto-Guzzi 1100 Griso
Is it the shaft or the knuckle that broke?
How was the kick lever indexed? Like 11:00 or 2:00 o'clock?. ................llm
I haven't taken the cover off to look but I'd say it's the knuckle because I can bring it up part way to say 11.00 o'clock after I shut the motor off and can restart it but when it's running it just hangs there at 6.00 o'clock.
I'm hauling the bike out to California next Friday and dropping it off, that's a 500 mile ride i don't need. 66' CL77, 63' CB77, 73' Jawa 350/ model 362 Californian 65' Jawa 250/model 590 07' Moto-Guzzi 1100 Griso
You seem to have a CL160 front fender on that bike. It's designed for an 18 inch wheel rather that the CL77's 19 inch one. It could be dangerous if it snags on the tire at high speed....
G '60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F
You may want to look how the cover is mounted as it could be nothing more than how the spring was when the cover was installed in relation to the spring. .........lm
Some of the o-ring kits offered nowadays have too thin of a cross-section for the tappet covers. Make sure when the o-ring is seated in the cover, that it protrudes about .030" above the flange surface. Also, some of the tappet covers have threads that may bottom out before the cover can be tightened enough to compress the o-ring. You might want to take each tappet cover off, check the o-ring height, then remove the o-ring, and re-install the tappet cover (just spin it in by hand) to make sure the flange bottoms out on the cylinder head surface. There are some cylinder heads that have very rough machined surfaces where the o-ring seals, so look for that, too. Regards, Chase
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