1964 Honda Dream CA78 Rebuild-storation

Bob750 · Post by **Bob750** » Fri May 10, 2013 10:42 am

As far as I understand it, it's a professional polyurethane clearcoat in a can. There's a button on the bottom, that you have to punch in, which releases the hardener into the clear paint. Then you shake for 2 minutes to mix the two parts before spraying. Once mixed the can says you have to use it within 24 hours, but users have posted that you really only have 12 before the stuff starts clogging the nozzle and splattering. (I imagine that if you took the time to wipe the spray head with a lacquer thinner periodically and after shooting as you put the can down, between shoots, the stuff won't collect at the nozzle and maybe you could let the can sit longer before it's unusable. You could also try the invert-and-spray-till-clear-gas-comes-out method, but I don't know if this is one of those fancy new cans that allows spraying at any angle--even upside down.)

So I'll have all the basecoat shot and be all set up to do one or two passes in one session with the clear, on a single perfect-for-painting day (65F to 75F, <55% humidity). The hardener causes the paint, once sprayed, to dry fast, hard and smooth. It's an automotive-quality paint, so I imagine it's quite gas-resistant. The seller recommends only "professionals" order the 2-part in a can, "because once applied, it's very difficult to remove." Sounds like a gas and oil resistant paint to me! :)

It's also made clear that you MUST use a respirator that filters isocyanates [Eye-so-SIGH-uh-nates](LIKE THIS ONE, NOT like this), and make sure it seals perfectly to your face, or you'll catch a central nervous system problem, or permanent asthma. I'm gonna have to shave my beard to do this job, because my facial hair will compromise the mask-to-face seal. BTW, while paint fumes usually have a strong smell, the isocyanates, the toxic component of the hardener, are odorless in themselves. I'm also going to wear gloves and get some Tyvek coveralls with hood and tape up my wrists, because the isos can also cause skin problems, and I don't want to take any chances.

For reference there's a lot of good general painting and prep info at PaintScratch.com if you look around the site.

sarals wrote:Bob and Tom - that's a two part paint, so it should stand up to gas and oil - correct?

I hope I answered the question. ;-)

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Fri May 10, 2013 11:24 am

Bob, you did, thank you. I just ordered a can of black for my gas tank - AND I ordered a face mask! Thanks for that warning on the hardener. That is almost exactly what the paint shop folks told me.

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Fri May 10, 2013 12:08 pm

Doesn't the EPA police come and get you in California if you use 2k paint without a big fume extraction rig?

I've been painting with cellulose and other 1k for 20+ (actually more like 30) without any problems, and certainly no health-related ones. I like to stay well clear of poisonous stuff.... :-)

G

sarals · Post by **sarals** » Fri May 10, 2013 12:40 pm

Graham, I won't tell if you don't!

I used to use Deltron and K&B epoxy paint a bit some years back when I was painting model boats for some friends of my ex (with an airbrush). I was rather impetuous back then and I didn't use a respirator. There was one time when the Deltron really got to me, and I know better now than fool around with such things. I'll be careful and I will use a mask!

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Fri May 10, 2013 1:45 pm

Sara

Just take care. We all enjoy your posts so we need to keep you 100%.... :-)

G

Bob750 · Post by **Bob750** » Sat May 18, 2013 3:25 pm

I told you it was gonna get real...

There's a first time for everything. I'm off to an auspicious start.

After putting in all the bolts for the Oil Separators, the last one I was tightening sheared off. I haven't attempted removal yet... But I did buy an extractor. This will be fun. I may try a chisel to make a slot and use a flat-head driver to simply turn it out. It was a clean bolt in a clean hole, so I won't be fighting any corrosion. If not, I'll drill a small center hole and try the new extractor bit by hand. Meanwhile a new bolt is on order.

Bob750 · Post by **Bob750** » Sat May 18, 2013 7:49 pm

Okay, so that was no biggie.

I put a cold chisel on top of the part of the bolt sticking up above the casting and gave it a whack. Aligned it again; gave it another whack. As I was aligning the chisel for a third whack (the slot was coming along nicely), the bolt spun easily; so I just unscrewed it a little with the chisel and then it came the rest of the way by hand.

Done. :-D

Oh yeah. Hey Ed, does this look familiar?