Removing Clutch CoverRemoving Clutch CoverSimple task but with prior experience working on old hondas I've found the screws are a huge pain and if I dont break my screw driver I strip the heads.. Nothing new I'm sure but wondering if anyone has some tips or special tools they use to get these little buggers out?
I was thinking something like this hand impact tool? Thanks for any tips! Brian
If it ain't broken, it ain't Vintage! 196? Honda Dream 1966 Vespa Small Frame 1980 Bajaj Chetak 2005 Bajaj Chetak Hand impact driver like you have pictured and if that doesn't work I break out the drill. I start with a bit around 3mm and drill to a depth just below the head. Then I use a bit around 6mm and the head pops right off. After you get the cover off you can usually remove the remaining threaded portion with your fingers. Very rare that the actual threads are seized.
Do yourself a big favor and pick up a set of JIS Screwdrivers. I got a 3 piece set for around $25 from McMaster-Carr. They have a different cut tip and makes a big difference between removal and stripping the head.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#jis-%28japanes ... rs/=cd559e They have a knurled shaft that you can grap w/ vise grips for extra leverage. These work very well and are JIS, even though the page doesn't say it...their printed page does.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0146/ Dip the tip in valvegrinding paste, tap them in with a hammer, push in and give a quick twist. The stock screwdrivers in the tool kit fit perfectly and have a slot for a spanner so it can be used a a T handle also, although you don't get as much leverage. If they are already partially boogered, I use a punch and try to tap the deformed metal back into the original shape if possible first. Of course, a drill is the ultimate last resort. 66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing
Hi,
Start to spray penetrating oil a few weeks before you will do the job. The surface under the bolt that contacts the aluminum of the side cover is giving troubles mostly. I use a diamond tipped screwdriver, but valve grinding paste is also a useful tip. When that doesn't work you can always use an impact driver or bore it out. Jensen assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
Why valve grinding paste??? That's a new one for me!!
My secret tip is Type "F" auto tranny fluid. The best rusty bolt remover I had ever found. An old alignment shop (not computerized) guy told me about it years ago and it works great. I have some in a oil squirt can that I squirt a little bit on any rusted bolt/nut before removing.
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