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Removing Clutch Cover

Ape
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2011 1:26 pm
Location: Bowman, GA

Removing Clutch Cover

Post by Ape » Sun May 15, 2011 10:25 pm

Simple task but with prior experience working on old hondas I've found the screws are a huge pain and if I dont break my screw driver I strip the heads.. Nothing new I'm sure but wondering if anyone has some tips or special tools they use to get these little buggers out?

I was thinking something like this hand impact tool?
Image

Thanks for any tips!
Brian
If it ain't broken, it ain't Vintage!

196? Honda Dream
1966 Vespa Small Frame
1980 Bajaj Chetak
2005 Bajaj Chetak

Hahnda
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Post by Hahnda » Sun May 15, 2011 11:06 pm

Hand impact driver like you have pictured and if that doesn't work I break out the drill. I start with a bit around 3mm and drill to a depth just below the head. Then I use a bit around 6mm and the head pops right off. After you get the cover off you can usually remove the remaining threaded portion with your fingers. Very rare that the actual threads are seized.

Ape
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Posts: 17
Joined: Sun May 08, 2011 1:26 pm
Location: Bowman, GA

Post by Ape » Mon May 16, 2011 1:49 pm

Thanks Kevin, hoping I don't have to break out the drill but I guess ya gotta do what ya gotta do!
Brian
If it ain't broken, it ain't Vintage!

196? Honda Dream
1966 Vespa Small Frame
1980 Bajaj Chetak
2005 Bajaj Chetak

Glenardo
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Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by Glenardo » Wed May 18, 2011 8:09 pm

Do yourself a big favor and pick up a set of JIS Screwdrivers. I got a 3 piece set for around $25 from McMaster-Carr. They have a different cut tip and makes a big difference between removal and stripping the head.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#jis-%28japanes ... rs/=cd559e

They have a knurled shaft that you can grap w/ vise grips for extra leverage.

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brewsky
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Post by brewsky » Thu May 19, 2011 5:14 am

These work very well and are JIS, even though the page doesn't say it...their printed page does.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0146/

Dip the tip in valvegrinding paste, tap them in with a hammer, push in and give a quick twist.

The stock screwdrivers in the tool kit fit perfectly and have a slot for a spanner so it can be used a a T handle also, although you don't get as much leverage.

If they are already partially boogered, I use a punch and try to tap the deformed metal back into the original shape if possible first.

Of course, a drill is the ultimate last resort.
66 dream, 78 cb750k, 02fz1, 09 wing

jensen
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Post by jensen » Thu May 19, 2011 6:29 am

Hi,

Start to spray penetrating oil a few weeks before you will do the job. The surface under the bolt that contacts the aluminum of the side cover is giving troubles mostly. I use a diamond tipped screwdriver, but valve grinding paste is also a useful tip. When that doesn't work you can always use an impact driver or bore it out.

Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)

Glenardo
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Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post by Glenardo » Sat May 21, 2011 10:13 am

Why valve grinding paste??? That's a new one for me!!

My secret tip is Type "F" auto tranny fluid. The best rusty bolt remover I had ever found. An old alignment shop (not computerized) guy told me about it years ago and it works great. I have some in a oil squirt can that I squirt a little bit on any rusted bolt/nut before removing.

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