1962 CB77 Restoration underway

hillhudson · Post by **hillhudson** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 1:56 pm

tom, can't wait to see, has anyone that you know of had any parts copper plated ? i'm going to be doing a custom rebuild and i know that some of the old racer has some copper plating here and there,

is zink plating rather expensive ?
-hill

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 9:54 pm

Hill,

Zinc plating isn't expensive like chrome plating. It is a sacrificial coating to protect the steel from oxidizing. I personally have never had any parts copper plated. Good chrome platers use copper as a strike coat before nickel plating the part, so most chrome platers probably offer copper plating. You will have to clear coat it or keep it polished to keep it from tarnishing and turning dull brown.

HT

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:21 am

Time to remove the shift drum and shift forks for inspection. You'll need to bend back the lock washer tabs before unscrewing the shift fork guide pins. Mark the shift forks with a marker L & R because if they only have wear on one side you may be able to swap their positions exposing the unworn sides to service.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:27 am

When you remove the shift fork guide pin make sure you get the little roller out that sits on the pin. You'll notice that roller has a bevel cut inside, and that end goes down on the pin. You don't want that end facing up. I have it photoed as it should be oriented.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:33 am

Time has come to remove the assy. There are 2 screws to be removed that hold the shift drum setting plate. Before I mess with removing the shift fork pins I loosen the screws. It usually takes a couple whacks with an impact driver to loosen them. Remove the screws. To remove the screws you will need to rotace the drum for clearance on the heads. You will see what I'm talking about when you do it. Now just lift the drum and plate straight up and out. The forks will fall out loose in the case.

Hoosier Tom · Post by **Hoosier Tom** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:35 am

Turn the case over and remove the neutral switch and then the oil seal. It usually takes a couple whacks with the impact driver to loosen the screws.

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:43 pm

Tom, you and I are running parallel refurbs; I was even at the same stage as you, yesterday! I keep forgetting my camera, but there's no point in us both posting the same images, in any case.