Webster NY Dream Project

[bbap]

Ran into an apparent road block last night....

I went through a fair amount of oak, when trying to separate the cylinder from the cases. I feel that there are fasteners holding this together, but I cannot see anything on the schematics. Suggestion on best practices of removing Cylinder from Cases?

What I've done so far:
1. Tried to get some Pb blaster down on each head bolt (8),
2. Liquid wrench on the outside of the gasket between Cylinder and Case,
3. Beat with wood as cushion on the front side (low - near the gasket to case)

I have avoided banging on the back side as the only spot i can see would be the upper part of the Chain tensioner opening and that does not look substantial enough to do much 'encouraging'.

Suggestion(s)?

[Hotshoe]

When I get a reluctant barrel I flip the engine over so it's resting on it's cylinder studs and engine mounts (remove the dip stick extension on a CL) and continue some gentle persuasion applied with my trusty 3 lb maul and a wide block of wood to spread the impact force (at least a piece of 2x4) to the oil passage casting on the lower front of the barrel. That way you're not fighting gravity and you'll be able to see it better if it moves a little and exploit that spot. Watch those engine studs and the oil passage casting though, I've never bent or broken anything using this technique but better safe than sorry.
PS.... you get the "shade tree mechanic" award of the week for that press!

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Thanks for the ideas! Flipping it is tough on me these days and i was concerned about bending something or worse.

I worked it out with Loud Mouse and came up with this: Cylinder removal tool and Piston and Piston Compression Tool - I don't know how to put a link in this post though...so I posted it where others may need it or want to reverse engineer it on this Forum.

GOT IT OFF! :) Using this homemade press:


Cylinder removal tool.2 by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

[Tango911]

wow what a project. Sucker is going to look sweet. i have the same bags but they are white and i need to get them gel coated i think, or at least a nicer paint job.
I have collected some lights for my buco bags as well. not sure if im going to add brakes to one set or not, but they are hard to find.

Keep the pictures rolling!!

[Hotshoe]

Very creative.... make that the "shade tree mechanic" award of the month for that press and with a round of applause for Ed (as usual).
Beating it into submission with my 3lb maul would have been more fun though. ;-)))

[brewsky]

Thanks for the ideas! Flipping it is tough on me these days and i was concerned about bending something or worse.

I worked it out with Loud Mouse and came up with this: Cylinder removal tool and Piston and Piston Compression Tool - I don't know how to put a link in this post though...so I posted it where others may need it or want to reverse engineer it on this Forum.

GOT IT OFF! :) Using this homemade press:


Cylinder removal tool.2 by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

Gotta love it...definitely a candidate for the "Tips and Tricks" section!

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Day 6: Headz Off 'n more

Well, I'm in a holding pattern. Waiting on parts to come magically to my door step from the guy dressed in brown. I wonder how many miles one of those UPS trucks get on them before they wholesale them off. My guy comes screaming to a stop, jumps out and runs to my door and then back to the truck (with radio blarring) and screams off to the next stop. All that quick stop and go....hmmmmm.

After applying to the US Patent office for tools made, I've still been busy doing other things. Almost every day something on the bike gets worked on - often during lunch. After I removed the heads, I had a bugger of a time removing the two compression rings on one piston. They were both compressed with no gap. I put the pistons in the freezer for about 6 hours and then put the MAP gass and flame to them. It's a beautiful sight when you seen them decompress! Broke one but I needed one to clean the gaps throroughly so it was not unexpected. Basically, pistons look good to VG and I ordered new rings.

I took the hone to the cylinders and put some hash marks back into the metal to await a coating of SAE 30SW. In looking at the wrist pin - too much pitting. I'm sure they were original - ordered new ones.

I thoroughly degreased the cyclinder and head and removed much of the "stuff" that accumulates on a 1963 object that has been exposed. I used dollar store "Totally Awesome" for the degreaser and used Green scrubbies to clean all. Finishing off with a small brass wheel and some 400 grit and paint was applied. I used: Dupli-Color DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum (by Krylon Industrial).

Jugs and Head by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr
I also did some clean up on a number of other parts and started working on the tank. I was very pleasantly surprised by how clean the inside of the tank is. Huge bonus! After cleaning up the side covers and swingarm, I primed and painted Dupli-Color T99 grey Primer and DE1632 Chrysler Red. The Red is more red then the pics suggest and it is engine paint with ceramic, oil & gas resitant and good to 500 degrees. Hope the Red-painted items never have to experience temps in that range or there is a serious problem happening! This is a good shot of my DIY "Paint Booth".

Painted parts by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr
Here's some pics of the progress.


Swingarm as removed - nasty by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

Swingarm in primer by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

Swingarm in paint by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

Cases by nestwoodmotors, on Flickr

I'm spending a little more quality time on the tank to get it looking as well as I can. I removed the petcock a while back and will need one of thos $20 rebuild kits, but it should be operable.

I've gotta find some of those Zinc strips. I really want to try out the process of Zinc coating some of the fasteners or more.

Waiting for "brown" to show..........