bought a 67 cl77 not running but mainly complete. during my dissasembly it seem that each of the exhaust ports has one of the stud bolts stripped out and losely replaced with a double end stud that has enough grip to look secure but comes out with a little torque.
i will tap it to the next size thread but i can never find a torque setting for the flange nuts. i'm going to go with a general torque of between 12 and 18 ft lbs.
will this new stud hold under working conditions ?
i would hate to have to pull the head since the motor does run.would it be better to thread it an go with a socket head or bolt, or replace the double end stud and be gentle when tightening?
has anyone had this before without pulling the motor and pulling the head?
didn't see that comming
Re: didn't see that commingI've had this many a time.
If I am able to Heli-Coil or similar I stay with that size stud. I've had some I needed to coil to 8MM and use a 6MM to 8MM stud. I've had to make a couple of those. Thanks to my dad for the lathe. ............lm
I had to do this on exactly the same year CL77 this year. I had removed the exhaust and was reinstalling when the stud just snapped. I was able to get the other piece out because enough was sticking you. You will never believe what I found. The PO had welded a 1/4-20 threaded section to the front portion of the original 6mm stud, ground it smooth, tapped the head 1/4-20 and stuck that cobbled up stud back in there. My guess is the 6mm thread was stripped in the head.
Needless to say, you cannot, to my knowledge, buy a stud with one end 6mm and the other 1/4-20. Actually at first I thought it was a coarse and fine metric thread. But when I started to research metric stud, I realized they are the same pitch on both end, unlike US studs which are usually coarse on one end and fine on the other. Thankfully, having used 1/4-20 left plenty of meat in the head to tap it for a 6mm helicoil and put in a standard 6mm stud. And if you have NAPA Auto Parts stored in your area, they have studs. Not exactly the same length as OEM but close enough. I think they were something like a dollar each. regards, Rob
heli-coil for 6mmok here's where i'm at
the holes i'm left with for some reason the prev. owner couldn't drill a round hole. my calipers tell me i'm about .025 out of round at .250 to .275 one hole still has a portion of the 6mm stud and i have tried many many times to use those reverse extractors and they break and are even harder to remove so the whole part gets replaced. with these conditions can a 6mm heli-coil still be used and if not would i be wise to use some JB weld as a form of loc-tite on a 8mm tap to give me some sort of bonding agent for the hole with the broken stud cause the tap will only go maybe 8 full threads so i'm relating JB weld and the stud like a fence post in cement so it will at least be anchored and prevent it from vibrating lose. and another brilliant discovery today the prev. owner welded the shifter to the shaft and i'm happy to say i'm glad i kept my ca77 parts motor wich meant i completed a repair and got my spirits up. let me know about that heli-coil dilemma and what other options i have with the hole size
Re: heli-coil for 6mmA coil will require ya to drill a LARGER hole so ya can tap/thread and install the coil.
This may take care of the out of round hole. Have ya used the extraction bits which ya rotate counter clockwise with a drill to try to remove the broken stud part? Have ya drilled it through and using tapered chisels to collapse the edges? I agree about the "Easy Out's" being useless. ..............lm
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