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1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

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Spargett
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Post by Spargett » Tue Jun 29, 2010 3:52 am

Considering they don't advise tightening it more than "finger tight", risking breaking the housing; I don't think it's up to withstanding the pressures under load at those 'torque' settings. Besides, looking straight down and to the side with that much focus sounds too dangerous to be worth it. It only takes a second for something unexpected to cross your path.

eyhonda
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Post by eyhonda » Tue Jun 29, 2010 9:12 am

I've read the housing sometimes breaks in the cylinder head. It was caused by either over-torquing it or the threads were out of spec. In the cases where the threads were bad, the housing got stuck. So some parts were bad quality. I just googled it out then changed my mind. Besides, since I got the carbs tuned, I don't need them. If I did get it, it would have been used once or hardly.
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Spargett
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Post by Spargett » Tue Jun 29, 2010 4:38 pm

I've got a pretty sizable oil leak from the left crankcase. Right in between the two bottom rear screws on the case. It's a new gasket with with the screws torqued down as far as they'll go. I had a 10-40 blend I was using and attributed the leaking to the thin oil, but put an organic 10-40 and it actually got worse.

I know this is a kind of common place to leak, I was wondering if there's any tricks to prevent this from happening.

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Tue Jun 29, 2010 5:00 pm

Do you mean the clutch cover Scott? If so, are those screws slightly too long and bottoming out before fully compressing the gasket?

Also, I'd not trust alu casings as old as ours, so a smear of Hondabond/Threebond/Yamabond when assembling the cover should do the trick; mind the oilway, though!

Spargett
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Post by Spargett » Tue Jun 29, 2010 5:25 pm

I'm pretty sure the bolts are snug, I'll double check though. I'll give the Hondabond a shot as well. I get the general vibe that it's use outside of split lower cases is rather taboo, but I think this calls for it. Thanks.
e3steve wrote:Do you mean the clutch cover Scott? If so, are those screws slightly too long and bottoming out before fully compressing the gasket? Also, I'd not trust alu casings as old as ours, so a smear of Hondabond/Threebond/Yamabond when assembling the cover should do the trick; mind the oilway, though!

LOUD MOUSE
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Post by LOUD MOUSE » Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:00 pm

I once had a similar problem and I found one of those DOTS which ya remove to make the hole for the screws between the gasket and cover. .. .............lm

Spargett wrote:I'm pretty sure the bolts are snug, I'll double check though. I'll give the Hondabond a shot as well. I get the general vibe that it's use outside of split lower cases is rather taboo, but I think this calls for it. Thanks.
e3steve wrote:Do you mean the clutch cover Scott? If so, are those screws slightly too long and bottoming out before fully compressing the gasket? Also, I'd not trust alu casings as old as ours, so a smear of Hondabond/Threebond/Yamabond when assembling the cover should do the trick; mind the oilway, though!

e3steve
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Post by e3steve » Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:21 am

Spargett wrote:I'm pretty sure the bolts are snug, I'll double check though. I'll give the Hondabond a shot as well. I get the general vibe that it's use outside of split lower cases is rather taboo, but I think this calls for it. Thanks.
e3steve wrote:Do you mean the clutch cover Scott? If so, are those screws slightly too long and bottoming out before fully compressing the gasket? Also, I'd not trust alu casings as old as ours, so a smear of Hondabond/Threebond/Yamabond when assembling the cover should do the trick; mind the oilway, though!
It seems like your leak is around the oilway. I always favoured blue 'Hylomar' to augment the sealing with a gasket; there are times when such measures become necessary. The downside of Hylomar is that it'll always be visible around the casing. The method I will be trying is RS silicone grease; your Allied Electronics has a similar product, the advantages of each being that it renders the clutch cover easily removable AND it's invisible within the joint.

Worth a try?

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