1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

[LOUD MOUSE]

If ya would like to see one of these sprockets with the correct clearance for the weights go to this eBay item. ..............lm

ITEM# 400105579060

Yes.
The noise from "Advance Weights" has been known by those of us who ride street bikes for many years.
That same/similar noise can/does come when the rivets loosen and the sprocket moves back and forth.
Good news is the owner of the parts sent them for me to look at as a neophyte has a problem identifying what can be wrong when they have only one part to look at and doesn't have a good one to compare to.
More good news is I have a good one to replace the bad one here.
When ya lift either of the weights and release it the spring pulls it back and ya hear/feel metal to metal contact.
Now imagine these weights moving out/in as the engine runs and ya have the clank-clank. .................lm

Sounds like the only thing wrong that any of us has been able to find is with the points cam advance mechanism.

Can all that noise really be coming from the cam sprocket weights bouncing back and forth against the core of the cam coupler?

[Spargett]

Thanks LM, I was meaning to update the thread on what's been going on, and for diagnosing the "phantom noise" issue. And thanks Richard for taking the time to help me with everything. I learned alot in the short time we spoke.

I'll be adding photos as the reassembly commences for the second revision of the restoration.

[teazer]

And what does a bad one look like, by comparison? That might be an easy way for us all to recognize a potential problem.

As an aside, it's probably safe to assume that most are pretty mugh worn or loose of damaged by now. Is there an effective way to refurbish them with replacement sprocket and or new rubber damper coatings and maybe new rivets etc?

It seems that there may be a market, though to be honest this is the first time I saw a noisy one. You have probably seen more of them than I have and I tend to through that part away anyway.

In fact if the electronic ignition could be programmed with an advance curve, that might be a useful upgrade to spot weld the timing. Maybe it's just not common enough to generate a useful sized market though.

[Spargett]

I've read of spot welding that at a 45° angle in Bill Silver's manual.

In fact if the electronic ignition could be programmed with an advance curve, that might be a useful upgrade to spot weld the timing. Maybe it's just not common enough to generate a useful sized market though.

[LOUD MOUSE]

I just lifted one weight and let it go and it went"clank" then I did the other and it went "clank".
This even though the neoprene was still on the posts.
If ya need to test yours ya can lift the weights then listen for a metallic "clank".
Ya don't want to hear that sound.
Tis better if ya don't hear much of anything. ..................lm

And what does a bad one look like, by comparison? That might be an easy way for us all to recognize a potential problem.

As an aside, it's probably safe to assume that most are pretty mugh worn or loose of damaged by now. Is there an effective way to refurbish them with replacement sprocket and or new rubber damper coatings and maybe new rivets etc?

It seems that there may be a market, though to be honest this is the first time I saw a noisy one. You have probably seen more of them than I have and I tend to through that part away anyway.

In fact if the electronic ignition could be programmed with an advance curve, that might be a useful upgrade to spot weld the timing. Maybe it's just not common enough to generate a useful sized market though.

[teazer]

I recently built a motor that Clunked as you describe it, but had tight springs, no perceptible lash and was silent when I ran the motor. No Clack-Clack at all when it ran.

Do you have a picture of a bad one (like Scott's perhaps) so we can see the difference? Or am I to understand that it'snot so easy to spot visually.

[teazer]

I've read of spot welding that at a 45° angle in Bill Silver's manual.

Thanks Scott. I agree with Bill Silver then. On racers with crank mounted ignitions, I strip out all the advance mechanism. For bikes with cam mounted ignition, I usually weld the little square plate in the fully advanced position.

But for a street bike, that might cause some pinking at low revs and high load.