Chico...thank you for your encouragement. I have loved my Ugly Betty right from the beginning and even though she has brought frustration at times, I still love her--she is a thing of beauty!
I try to research everything but, as you well know, I've made mistaken assumptions along the way and I'm lucky to have had others to correct me. What I want to avoid is the needless ruining of parts because at my age, I cling to the belief that some of the stuff from 50 years ago is worth keeping?
Your comment reminds me of how grateful I am to the many members of this forum who have helped me with answers to my questions. It also adds to previous cautions that some questions should not be posed.
Wilf
Ugly Betty
-
- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:51 am
- Location: Ft. Edward, New York
1950
Wilf, having turned 59 last month I can agree with you that this is the last hoorah. Having said that I have put together my bike just to tear it apart again to install something that should have been put together first, but I have used this forum to get me to the end. I can't say enough about the forum that has'nt been said allready to make me thankful that I found it. THere is a God and aposiles on this site that have been instermental in getting my bike going. I appriecatate it and applaud them
chico(steve)
66 CB77
ride safe
66 CB77
ride safe
Already it's almost the end of February. I have cleaned up the spare pistons, rings and cylinder barrels that the PO gave me. Now, with a new head gasket from Retrobikes I am ready to put the head back on. (I hope that mentioning parts sources is not out of line--I appreciate all those who have helped me with spare or new parts and/or their knowledge).
The top cover has been torqued down and the engine cleaned up as best I can for the time being.
It's time to clean and repaint the coils. The brackets and mounting hardware have been scrubbed and are ready for me to re-plate. I love this part--it's just too easy and so rewarding to put new zinc onto old rusty metal!
The motor has been re-married to its frame. A question to this forum showed me where the breather tube ends up--thanks! Those valve covers are just crying to be re-finshed!
The top cover has been torqued down and the engine cleaned up as best I can for the time being.
It's time to clean and repaint the coils. The brackets and mounting hardware have been scrubbed and are ready for me to re-plate. I love this part--it's just too easy and so rewarding to put new zinc onto old rusty metal!
The motor has been re-married to its frame. A question to this forum showed me where the breather tube ends up--thanks! Those valve covers are just crying to be re-finshed!
In amongst all the bubbles is a coil bracket getting a new layer of zinc supplied by the 4 strips of roofing zinc lining the bucket. I've found this works very nicely and is cheap and fairly quick and easy to do.
The right fork-the leaky one-came apart rather easily because the threads were lubricated with the leaking oil. I had to use a strap wrench on the left one.
Inside the fork I found a stick that I think a PO was using to dip the fork oil level before losing it down the tube. The spring length was still to spec.
With new seals, o-rings and paint the forks went back on.
Newly painted coils, re-plated brackets and new high tension wires are beginning to fill in the previously bare frame. I have since moved the grounding wire to the inside of the rear hanger bolt.
The right fork-the leaky one-came apart rather easily because the threads were lubricated with the leaking oil. I had to use a strap wrench on the left one.
Inside the fork I found a stick that I think a PO was using to dip the fork oil level before losing it down the tube. The spring length was still to spec.
With new seals, o-rings and paint the forks went back on.
Newly painted coils, re-plated brackets and new high tension wires are beginning to fill in the previously bare frame. I have since moved the grounding wire to the inside of the rear hanger bolt.
Time to pry off the old tire and look inside the front hub.
I'm relieved to see the insides are pretty clean. When I took apart the hub on my CT90 it was absolutely packed with grease. The PO had pumped it in so hard as to force the speedo seal and then just kept filling up the drum!
I wanted to make sure I could refer to the punch marks on the brake arms and cams so I took this photo. They looked properly aligned. And there's more clear coat to get rid of!
There were half a dozen wraps of masking tape on the front rim serving as a rim band. That took some time to clean up so I could unlace the wheel for an easier job of cleaning the spokes and hub. Then it was on to the rear wheel for the same treatment.
New brake shoes went on the front and a bunch of elbow grease cleaned up the hub--I started wet sanding with 400 to get rid of the clear coat and the many scratches. Then up to 600, 1000, 2000 and finally Mother's Mag and Auminum polish. Fine steel wool cleaned the surface rust off the rim.
I had listened carefully to the wheel bearings and they ran smooth and quiet so I didn't replace them.
I'm relieved to see the insides are pretty clean. When I took apart the hub on my CT90 it was absolutely packed with grease. The PO had pumped it in so hard as to force the speedo seal and then just kept filling up the drum!
I wanted to make sure I could refer to the punch marks on the brake arms and cams so I took this photo. They looked properly aligned. And there's more clear coat to get rid of!
There were half a dozen wraps of masking tape on the front rim serving as a rim band. That took some time to clean up so I could unlace the wheel for an easier job of cleaning the spokes and hub. Then it was on to the rear wheel for the same treatment.
New brake shoes went on the front and a bunch of elbow grease cleaned up the hub--I started wet sanding with 400 to get rid of the clear coat and the many scratches. Then up to 600, 1000, 2000 and finally Mother's Mag and Auminum polish. Fine steel wool cleaned the surface rust off the rim.
I had listened carefully to the wheel bearings and they ran smooth and quiet so I didn't replace them.
I was curious to see if the oil strainer held any metal surprises and whether the oil pump would actually pump oil. Apart from a bit of black sludge on the bottom of the strainer there was nothing scary so I cleaned it up, stuffed a small tube into the pump outlet and submerged it in about an 1" of oil. Then I used a blast of air from my compressor directed at the gear teeth to spin the pump. Oil came up the tube, so I didn't bother taking it apart any further.
The stator had to come off in order to put in the starter sprocket stopper. It's a bit oily but I can't see evidence of a substantial oil leak from either the sprocket seal or the crank seal in behind the sprocket.
The starter solenoid went 'click' when I applied power to it so it was easy just to clean the contacts, lube the plunger a bit and fit 2 new grommets to the case before bolting it back in.
The spares box had a complete ignition switch, and with the lock number, Mark at hondakeys was able to fix me up with a used key.
My aversion to electrical tape is as serious as my feelings about clear coat. This old rectifier will be replaced with a new bridge and I've managed to scavenge enough connectors and properly colored wires from extra wiring harnesses to put together a sound loom.
The stator had to come off in order to put in the starter sprocket stopper. It's a bit oily but I can't see evidence of a substantial oil leak from either the sprocket seal or the crank seal in behind the sprocket.
The starter solenoid went 'click' when I applied power to it so it was easy just to clean the contacts, lube the plunger a bit and fit 2 new grommets to the case before bolting it back in.
The spares box had a complete ignition switch, and with the lock number, Mark at hondakeys was able to fix me up with a used key.
My aversion to electrical tape is as serious as my feelings about clear coat. This old rectifier will be replaced with a new bridge and I've managed to scavenge enough connectors and properly colored wires from extra wiring harnesses to put together a sound loom.