1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

[Spargett]

The rear brake however performed beautifully after the cleaning. Until after testing it for the 3rd or 4th time, I heart a large *snap* sound. I looked down to see the shoddy JB Weld fix by the previous owner (predictably) failing.

Always something right? So I'm wondering what my options are. There's a few hubs I looking at online (first auction - second auction). I've heard welding aluminum is difficult. What course of action would you take?

[jensen]

Hi,

I'd look for a good one, in the mean time welding is an option, but soldering is intresting posibility too, (almost invisible). The problem is to find a person with the skills and knowledge to solder it.

I have very good experiences with soldering aluminium and steel, but I know someone who knows where he's talking about.

Jensen

[LOUD MOUSE]

The brake arms are wrong side out and I would like to see a oic of how the shoes are adjusted on the inside of the plate. ............lm

I've been having problems with my front brake. After reassembling, I just couldn't get the stopping power I'd need to ride safely. One of the tests I've been doing (since the bike isn't running yet), is rolling out of the garage, which is on a very slight grade by just pushing with my feet and pulling the brake to measure the stopping ability.

What it'll do it coming to a stop slowly after about 1 - 1 1/2 feet. Keep in mind this is just me rolling at a few mph. At that rate, if a car quickly stopped in front of me going just 25mph, I'd surely smash into the back of it.

I then realized that I initially scrubbed the inside of the hub with engine degreaser, and maybe that's causing the inability to properly grip. So I put the bike up on the jack and disassembled both wheels and cleaned them out with brake cleaner.

Here's the before and after. I was pretty confident this would fix the issue. (these are of the rear brake shoes, but the front shoes looked exactly the same).





So after reassembly, I spun the whee and pulled on the level. The brakes gripped nicely. I then did the same test, rolling out of the garage. It was nearly the same to my dismay.

I've tried experimenting with different methods of adjusting the brake drum lever rods and cable adjuster. Haven't had any success with that, but I don't really know what I'm doing either. Adjusting the cable adjust alone had no effect on end braking power, just tension within the lever. Here's a shot of how everything looks.

ANY help or feedback in fixing this is greatly appreciated. Safety is my #1 concern at the end of the day, and it's current state is far from satisfactory in my opinion.

[LOUD MOUSE]

As per the wiring diagram. Isn't black "battery"?. .....lm

So I'm working on sorting out all the wiring. Here's a shot of inside the headlight housing. My question is: Can I run all these ground together like so then insulate this? Makes sense to me, but I wanted to run it by the forum first. The voice of experience.

Here's a wiring diagram in color for reference.

(Click photo to view full size)

[e3steve]

So I'm working on sorting out all the wiring. Here's a shot of inside the headlight housing. My question is: Can I run all these ground together like so then insulate this? Makes sense to me, but I wanted to run it by the forum first. The voice of experience.

Here's a wiring diagram in color for reference.

(Click photo to view full size)

Scott, that doesn't look right. Black is +12v IGNITION circuit, along with black/white or black with a white sleeve. Green/white sleeve is ground. DO NOT confuse ground with green (meter lamp and feed to headlamp dimmer switch, centre contact.

[e3steve]

Or have some of the wiring colours been replaced with non-std?

[Spargett]

Thanks LM. I'll get to it and have some photos for you by this evening.

The brake arms are wrong side out and I would like to see a oic of how the shoes are adjusted on the inside of the plate. ............lm