30W Non-detergent - Or is there something better?

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:19 am

Welcome back DD!

deaddog · Post by **deaddog** » Thu Aug 06, 2009 11:38 am

Well THANKS!!

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 2:43 pm

Here's one for the melting pot: I'm gonna experiment for the forum. I'm really struggling here, in Spain, to get a N-D 30wt oil and, whilst I have massive respect for Ed and his knowledge & experience, I can also see the 'modern' 21st century rationale regarding oil technology. So, today, I changed my oil (along with checking/adjusting plugs, points, timing & tappets) and refilled with Castrol Act>evo 20w50, which is a JASO MA2 m/c oil for wet-clutch bikes. It is part synth though, so we'll see what occurs as far as the filter is concerned; I'll lab-rat my motor, as I'll be stripping and totally refurbing it when winter comes -- late Jan 2010 -- so if any damage is sustained, it'll be of little consequence.

I went for 20w50 mainly to suit the climate here -- 28ºC today -- and I don't ride in cold or wet weather; I didn't fancy the idea of higher running temperatures dropping the viscosity right down to 10 Redwood seconds of runninessssssss of the other option of a 10w40 oil!

I'll keep you all UTD.

http://www.intobikes.co.uk/products/002 ... 50?src=fro

G-Man · Post by **G-Man** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 2:58 pm

Steve

Apologies if I'm preaching to the converted here but the idea of a multigrade oil is that its viscosity vs temperature curve is much flatter than a monograde oil. That means that your 20-50 oil 'behaves' like a 20 weight oil at room temperature (nice an runny when the engine is cold) but does not 'lose' its viscosity at running temperature and therefore 'behaves' like a 50 weight oil.

A 10-40 oil will therefore be 'thicker' at very high temps than the equivalent monograde once you've passed a certain temperature. Such an oil will whizz around a 'cold' engine much quicker than a 40 weight oil.

Nothwithstanding the fact that roller bearings and gears in a motorcycle engine eventually tend to chop up the long chain molecules that perform this magic, you should have no worries about a fresh 10-40 being thinner than a straight 40 at running temperatures in sizzling spain.

G

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 4:08 pm

Thanks G, that's informative. I always did get my viscosities crossed! I'm the same with currency, so when I come to England perhaps we could meet up and I'll give you €1000 for £1100?

Seriously, though I'm not draining off yet, so I'll run the ol' girl for a couple of hundred miles (my speedo is in 'old money') and then change out for the 10w40.

http://www.intobikes.co.uk/products/002 ... st&sd=DESC

jensen · Post by **jensen** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 4:38 pm

Hi Steve,

Why not going for a real synthetic oil ?
doing things half gives half the results

Castrol R4 superbike 10W-40 fully synthetic ?, only 4 pounds / litre more to pay

Jensen

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 4:47 pm

jensen wrote:Hi Steve,

Why not going for a real synthetic oil ?
doing things half gives half the results

Castrol R4 superbike 10W-40 fully synthetic ?, only 4 pounds / litre more to pay

Jensen

Thanks Jensen, but how about the centrifugal filter?