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no gears except first and neutral...

Clutch, Transmission, Drive Chain, Sprockets
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davomoto
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Location: Marin County CA

Post by davomoto » Sat Jun 13, 2009 2:56 pm

The half moon shaped retainer that is held on by the 2 phillips head screws need to be installed from the top, with the cutout facing down.

davomoto

nander
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Posts: 82
Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:32 am
Location: Los Angeles, California

Post by nander » Sat Jun 13, 2009 3:53 pm

Now I see.
I had no idea that's what you guys were talking about because I hadn't touched that retainer.
It's been on that way since I've owned the bike.
Maybe that's what caused this whole problem in the first place!?

Question now is: can it be fiddled around to the right orientation with the gearshift drum in place?
If not, can the gearshift drum be removed through the left side, without having to crack the cases?

Doesn't seem like there is enough clearance between the drum and the engine case.

allthumbs
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Posts: 131
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 7:33 am
Location: Beacon, NY

Post by allthumbs » Mon Jun 15, 2009 5:40 pm

I have mine in the same state. Is the drum supposed to have some play or is it supposed to be unmovable and tight where it is? I was trying to remove the retainer put obviously i need to spin the drum to allow access to the Philips head screws. I am hoping I have problems limited to this area but because I can't budge the drum at all I fear something in the tranny is awry.

The teeth of my gear shift shaft are chewed up pretty good so It's been working itself here for a while.

Also, the clutch lifter rod seemed to be just floating and not engaged with anything as it just slid right out when I removed the clutch lifter piece.

Thanks for the info and pics on this one, big help in dis assembly.

allthumbs
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Posts: 131
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 7:33 am
Location: Beacon, NY

Post by allthumbs » Mon Jun 15, 2009 7:45 pm

anyone have a decent gear shift spindle to sell?

LOUD MOUSE
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Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS

Post by LOUD MOUSE » Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:05 pm

The shift drum keeper MUST BE INSTALLED WITH THE HOOP AT THE TOP OF THE CASE NOT TO THE SPLIT CASE SIDE.
If it isn't the drum will wear the keeper and the trans will not shift to the correct distances/tolerances and the gears will be badly warn.
You will need to split the cases to allow the drum to be removed far enough to remove the keeper and install it correctly. (need to remove the shift fork rollers)
The rod isn't held in place by any keeper.
It is pushed on one end and pushes the pressure plate on the other.
You MUST TURN THE TRANS to move the shift drum. ...................lm

nander wrote:Now I see.
I had no idea that's what you guys were talking about because I hadn't touched that retainer.
It's been on that way since I've owned the bike.
Maybe that's what caused this whole problem in the first place!?

Question now is: can it be fiddled around to the right orientation with the gearshift drum in place?
If not, can the gearshift drum be removed through the left side, without having to crack the cases?

Doesn't seem like there is enough clearance between the drum and the engine case.

nander
honda305.com Member
Posts: 82
Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:32 am
Location: Los Angeles, California

Post by nander » Tue Jun 16, 2009 1:04 am

Thanks Loud Mouse, I've been waiting for the bad news.

Now that you mention it, the keeper seems worn along the edge that made contact with the drum (I'll try and post a pic tomorrow). And, for what it's worth, the few weeks I had the bike going (before the gear shift mechanism self destructed), I noticed that I occasionally couldn't engage second gear.

Allthumbs, I have no problem getting that keeper off. I can rotate the shift drum to expose the phillips head screws one at a time (don't know whether that indicates my transmission is more or less awry than yours!). It's getting the keeper back on that's impossible. There isn't enough clearance to get it into position correctly. So, in order to perform the seemingly simple task of rotating that keeper round to where it should be it appears I have to get inside the transmission to access the drum...

And once the cases are split, who knows what wear and tear I'll encounter?
Can of worms.

Having never dismantled/inspected/repaired a transmission, are there any important pointers: a list of parts you might as well replace while you have the opportunity, common mistakes people make, etc. that folks with experience might offer?

Thanks,
nander

allthumbs
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Posts: 131
Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 7:33 am
Location: Beacon, NY

Post by allthumbs » Tue Jun 16, 2009 7:22 am

how difficult would it be to drop the lower half and inspect/service the transmission without dropping th motor? as the bike stands?

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