Fresh meat!

[Spargett]

Loudo, what's the bike idling at? Maybe the slides aren't coming down all the way if there isn't enough slack in the throttle cable. That would explain why the slide screws aren't having any effect. They rely on the slide physically resting against the screw.

Just my two cents.

I find it hard to believe that the slide screws had no effect. OH WELL!. .......lm

[Loudo]

Yes, Scott, you're right....and emo is also correct for being incredulous that my slide screw adjustments have been ineffective. Especially after the excellent coaching on the phone he provided me. I'm hoping I can avoid being dragged behind a cart and then eaten by the village dogs, but it's going to take a little more attention to detail on my part. :[

My challenge, I think, is that I've been making fine adjustments to my idle by using the adjustment at the throttle grip. When my idle is too low, which normally occurs when it's really warmed up, I give it a slight turn so the bike will idle. I suppose I should make it slack at this adjustment so my slides are truly bottomed out but with my slide screws slightly turned in.

I did take a look at the slides when I had the air tubes off last time and screwed the slide screws in and out so I saw how the total range of movement there is very small.

I'd like to conclude with a shameless plug for my so-far unanswered question about mid-throttle burbling and the experiences of others. Anyone?

[davomoto]

Most likely running a bit rich. How far is the throttle open when this occurs? If it's 0 -1/4 this would indicate that the idle circut is a bit rich. None of my 305s have that issue.

davomoto

[Loudo]

Thanks, davomoto...yes, the throttle is open just slightly, easily less than 1/4 throttle just maintaining steady speed at about 2,300 rpm (I'm guessing.) My jet needles are in the second notch from the bottom like Bill Silver's book suggests instead of second notch from the top like emo has suggested to me. So far I've seen no love for the middle notch. :}

So...second notch from the top would lean the mixture, maybe that would improve the situation along with allowing emo to slather some "told ya so's" on me.

[davomoto]

It's certainly easy enough to try middle, and then upper positions on needle, and compare how it runs. Also check color of plugs, you don't want it running too lean.

davomoto

[e3steve]

Neilmate,

Warm it up (Prince!) > clean the plugs > idle it for 10 mins > check the colour

Clean the plugs (again) > ride for a few miles > check the colour

Report.

[Loudo]

Thank you, Steve...I will perform that test and deliver a full report.

So I suppose I should provide an update on yesterday's activity. I moved the carb jet needle clips to the center groove (leaner by one notch.) Pulled the bike out, started, right side not running. Instead of running through the whole litany of spark checking, I simply removed the spark plug and installed a new one. It started up and ran fine. One theory I have is that if one side doesn't start properly, it floods and then won't fire unless the plug is REALLY clean. Like, brand new clean perhaps. Maybe my spark is iffy so it's sensitive this way. Warmed it up, went on a decent ride about nine miles. Idle wanted to slowly drop to nothing when I stopped. Screwed the throttle slide screws all the way in, no effect. (Still.) Was able to improve the idle by turning the adjustment at the throttle grip as always.

Got it home, turned the air jets in slightly, turned them out slightly, very little if any discernible effect. Then I found that if I turn the handlebar to the right, the engine speeds up. Ah. Evidently I have a cable length issue. I shouldn't, and it makes no sense, and I couldn't see why it was happening even by peering closely at the throttle cable, but no other explanation makes sense. I think maybe the turning movement pulls the right side throttle cable slightly up out of its socket on top of the carb.

After puzzling over the idle thing, I started thinking that perhaps my slides aren't bottomed out like they should be which is why the slide screws are ineffective. But then I wondered how if that's the case why my idle is dropping way too low instead of racing like I'd expect.

I'd really like to just get new spark plug cables in order to rule out bad cables as the source of spark woes. These are probably original cables, and should one expect them to perform like new after 46 years? I suppose checking the points again would be wise too.

Other than the intermittent cold startup spark problem and the idle thing, the bike "charges like a bitin' sow."