timing chain adjustment question

[e3steve]

[quote="milwaukeephilAlright, then I'll take the whole assembly apart and make sure everything is freely moving. With the bolt loosened, I did see a tiny bit of moverment (like 1 or 2 mm) when I cranked it over, but I'm guessing I should see a lot more?

Thanks,
-phil[/quote]

Phil, I'd reckon 1 - 2mm is about right but, as the guys state, the plunger should move freely. It's probably binding in the casting drilling if it doesn't. Adjusting the camchain tension is a doddle and as previously stated in this post, but I'd advise taking out the ass'y and removing the plunger screw/nut then prove the unit in your hands. It's a good thing also to visually inspect the roller and the rubber plunger bed for excessive wear. If the roller isn't pliable and shows deep chain impressions, then it's shagged, as it's the pliability of the rollers (there's another, larger, fixed roller in the crankcase just above the crankshaft) that tolerates the tight/slack runout in the chain itself; without the relative softness of the rollers the camshaft bearings and the tensioner system bushes will soon be shot and the chain will be stretched. When refitting the tensioner ass'y it's good practice to replace the gasket, but essential if the old one breaks up anywhere.
TIP: the generic gaskets in overhaul kits tend to have excessively large screw holes, so apply a film of grease around the opening in the back of the barrels and stick the gasket to the grease, ensuring that the gasket affords a perfect seal around the inner edge. I thought I'd put mine back together properly by sticking the gasket on the tensioner, but the oil passed the gasket around one of the screw holes and pooled in the top of the crankcase after a spell of riding.
TIP 2: exercise caution when tightening the plunger screw and locking up the nut -- don't be too heavy handed as the thread in the tensioner casting has a nasty habit of stripping out! It's a good idea to invest in a variety of Helicoil or Recoil kits, as the alloy (metallic mix) was much softer back then!

[caldreamin]

Okay, just got in.


Timing: Followed your tuning recipe and got the timing perfect. It was missing and sputtering a little and now it's purring. THANK YOU!

-phil

"Tuning Recipe" ???? where can I find this???? I am trying to get my bike on the road and this sounds like what I really need!!! Thanx!!

[milwaukeephil]

Okay, just got in.


Timing: Followed your tuning recipe and got the timing perfect. It was missing and sputtering a little and now it's purring. THANK YOU!

-phil

"Tuning Recipe" ???? where can I find this???? I am trying to get my bike on the road and this sounds like what I really need!!! Thanx!!

I could have sworn there was one for the 305, but this is what I was referring to. Your exact mileage may vary.


http://www.honda305.com/cb77_700/cb77-716.htm

[CL77NOW]

there is a spring,
and if the fit of the shaft, is binding and the binding exceeds the tension on said spring
it's a stale mate. there must be zero binding. zero.

Most of all Hondas work like this, OHC

you want that shaft free. (like greased lightening)
if not fee, hone it . (ask how) (first try clean) hone is last.

now the spring sets the tension on the cam and not go logger heads with shaft friction.
that is all there is to this.
other than the procedure stated.

using a torque wrench on 6mm bolts ,solves stripping.

[LOUD MOUSE]

I think he has it right the easy way. ....................lm

Okay, understood, so let the stem move by itself and tighten it when it's in the furthest (assuming it's freely moving).
Thanks!
-phil

there is a spring,
and if the fit of the shaft, is binding and the binding exceeds the tension on said spring
it's a stale mate. there must be zero binding. zero.

Most of all Hondas work like this, OHC

you want that shaft free. (like greased lightening)
if not fee, hone it . (ask how) (first try clean) hone is last.

now the spring sets the tension on the cam and not go logger heads with shaft friction.
that is all there is to this.
other than the procedure stated.

using a torque wrench on 6mm bolts ,solves stripping.

[Airmun]

With regard to the housing thread stripping. I have had this happen and have drilled the housing and tapped to 8mm. It looks quite neat and is a lot more resistant to stripping. Not original, I know but on a daily used bike or a racer it won't matter. Just a thought!

[rzgkane]

Loosen the bolt and make sure the shaft will move. Turn the crank at the rotor bolt and watch the shaft. It should/may move in and out. Tighten the bolt when the shaft is in the most. ...........lm

hi guys, when setting the timing chain tensioner, i cant remember what position the crank should be in.

Ok. I loosened the 10mm bolt and then turned the engine over slowly while watching the tensioner shaft. It actually moved outward instead of inward. Is that normal? Does that not mean that the tensioner is backed off more than it was before I started?