1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:28 am

Thanks for the info. So everything is kinda held together by this seal? It sounds like I might not need to disassemble any of the oil seals to just paint the sleeves. Here's a link to the exploded diagram of the "later" forks if that helps you. What year is your bike? And is it painted the same color as the fork in the photo? And what's with the piece of wood in there!?

P.S. The spring inside isn't "loaded" or anything is it? Something to watch out for when disassembling like a valve spring.

Wilf wrote:Once the chrome fork seal housing has been unthreaded from the lower fork case (use a strap wrench or other suitable tool), the lower case should separate from the upper, thus exposing the spring and other innards. From my photo you may be able to see that removing the 3 spring clips will allow you to slide the piston, damper valve and fork tube guide off from the fork tube. You can then slide the chrome fork seal housing down and off the tube.

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 5:42 am

Just wanted you let you all know that I'm also developing a site dedicated to the restoration of this bike. As of now, its basically a splash page until the bike is finished. First things first right?

Vintage Honda Motorcycle

jleewebb · Post by **jleewebb** » Fri Mar 06, 2009 8:57 am

You won't get into spring if you're just taking apart far enuf to get upper shrouds off to paint. If painting lower part you'll need to do the strap wrench thing. Spring's not loaded unless there's weight on it. I'd recommend (from messy experience) draining fork tubes first to prevent possible spills, changing out fork oil's probably a good idea at this point anyway. I don't know how to check to see if fork seal is good, it was all too obvious that mine had failed. Seal is in chrome housing a couple of pieces down from where indicated in your photo, the part that unscrews from the lower painted tube. Website's lookin' good, I've bookmarked it. Good luck, Lee

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 5:26 pm

I've been asking a few questions in the paint section. Maybe you guys can help out:

So I have a few general questions regarding painting that I haven't really been able to find clear answers on my own.

1. Does anyone have any general experience painting over chrome?
2. If so, how long did you wait before you applied the layer of black paint?
3. How many layers of black paint and clear coat did you use?

As of now, I've been waiting for coat to cure up to a week like the instructions on the can recommend. Though a few paint shops I've contacted said they can have the parts back in 4 days. So it sounds to me like you might not have to wait so long. Sorry if the questions seem obvious.

Right now I have one session (2-4 layers) of black paint on my chain guard, and I'm wondering if I should just move on to clear coat now.

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 6:14 pm

I usually wait a day to clear coat, but that is with automotive clear urethane sprayed with a HVLP gun. Sand chrome to get a good tooth, and prime with self etching primer. Then top coat, and clear coat. If the chrome is in good shape on yours, you may wnat to try to find someone to swap you, or buy an extra set that haven't been chromed.

davomoto

Gunner_CAF · Post by **Gunner_CAF** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:45 pm

The paint I have been using says to put the coats on 10 minutes apart, and it if sits over an hour, wait 7 days to cure before putting on another coat. I have not followed this real close but I am waiting the 7 days to put clear on, but mostly because I didn't have much time to work on it since last weekend. The paint done at the shop they baked, so I am sure that helps speed the curing.

Gunner

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:01 am

Ahh, I see. Baking is the part I didn't know about. Thanks. I've been chatting with some people, and the idea of powder coating my fenders, air filter covers, and tank is becoming very appealing.

Gunner_CAF wrote:The paint I have been using says to put the coats on 10 minutes apart, and it if sits over an hour, wait 7 days to cure before putting on another coat. I have not followed this real close but I am waiting the 7 days to put clear on, but mostly because I didn't have much time to work on it since last weekend. The paint done at the shop they baked, so I am sure that helps speed the curing.

Gunner

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1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go

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