As you can see here, I'd really like to paint the front forks and rear shocks to the proper black for the CB77. I can't seem to find much practical information on how to disassemble the front forks or rear shocks. I'd normally give something like this a shot first, but it seems like the front forks or rear shocks could be an immense trouble if I'm not properly prepared.
Is this a huge pain, or something that's totally doable?
1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I go
Last edited by Spargett on Fri Mar 06, 2009 6:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/
paint on fenders etc.That seems like an outrageous price to me. I paid my friend Mike $300 (he only asked for $250 but deserved a bonus) to do my whole bike, frame and all. Had an estimate of $400 from another guy I found on Craigslist. Of course I'd stripped, sandblasted (thanks, Ed) and primed everything. Paint cost was a little over $100, Imron would have been four times that at least. Some folks just sandpaper and rattlecan the silver parts, I did that to mine back in the day (early 70s) and it came out, um, ok for a rider. Can't believe how nasty your tank looks even after all your work, that must be discouraging. Different tank from ebay? Didn't you say you took some parts to a friend with a sandblaster? Didn't I see pix of you spraying primer on stuff? I bet you can do this yourself.
Purists among us would recommend painting tailight bracket silver and chainguard black or whatever body color. And don't forget the mudguard/flipper, not a superhawk without the flipper imho. Good luck, keep on truckin'. (Do they still say that in California or am I stuck in the 60s?) -- Lee
more on paintingYou snuck in another post while I was composing last one, we're both up early. Got the cb77 fever. I put some words and pix about taking apart front forks early in my restoration thread, not too bad a job, you might could do it without pulling steering stem, or you might want to pull stem anyway to check out races and regrease everything. Watch out for those loose ball bearings. Hard part of front forks is replacing the seals, that's a bitch.
Don't know how your aftermarket rear shocks come apart, if they're like originals, it's not too hard with right tool, which can be rented. I'll leave it to experts to comment on wisdom/technique of painting over chrome. Thanks, Lee Re: paint on fenders etc.Thanks for the info. Yeah, the tank's paint is something else, but I'm determined! I've got premiering down no problem. I do have a friend with a sandblaster, but its a rather small box. The clutch crankcase barely fit inside. Can't really do anything larger. One of the reasons I really wanted to have the fenders and air filters done is because its the same gnarly (and poor quality) paint as used on the chain guard that even the aluminum oxide sandblasting had some trouble getting off. That and they're rather large pieces, so it'd be nice to have them looking extra good. I've painted everything else myself thus far.
I've purchased the replacement shocks off eBay (Singapore) that look right, but their chrome as well. The chain guard has already been painted with it's first coat of black. Not sure if once coat is good enough before clear coating.
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ I was thinking back to an issue of the carb slides sticking, which was traced to the bolts being too tight on the body. But it got me to wondering if there was anything that could be done to the slides themselves. I just read this on the Honda305 repair log (9.3.99) and thought I should share:
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ cb77 front forksHi Spargett,
I'm new to this forum, but it just happens that I'm replacing the fork seals on my 1963 CB77. I want to thank you for your excellent photos on your restoration--they have been very helpful to me as I try to put the life back into my machine. Just the other day my right front fork assembly, which has been off the bike for a month or so, decided to disassemble itself when I lifted it up by the top. I was quite surprised to find a 10 inch long fir splinter resting in the lower case. At the same time I was very pleased to see exactly what the fork innards look like, as I have yet to come across a useful diagram/explanation for fork disassembly and seal replacement. Given my very limited knowledge with the CB77, I offer the following: Once the chrome fork seal housing has been unthreaded from the lower fork case (use a strap wrench or other suitable tool), the lower case should separate from the upper, thus exposing the spring and other innards. From my photo you may be able to see that removing the 3 spring clips will allow you to slide the piston, damper valve and fork tube guide off from the fork tube. You can then slide the chrome fork seal housing down and off the tube. Removing the fork seal is not all that much of a hassle. I used needle nosed pliers to pull out the seal retainer clip and then I used a hammer and screwdriver to gently beat on the seal perimeter from the narrow end of the chrome housing. It took a little while, but by working around the perimeter, it slowly loosened and came free. I did this only this afternoon, so I have as yet to discover the intricacies of installing the new seal! I hope my photo uploads ok, and again, I compliment you on your very illuminating documentation. Wilf
fork sealsWilf, connection of your piston to tube is quite different from my early 62 model which used three tapered "knock pins" to hold the piston on. These have to be knocked out from inside the tube to get piston off, a bit of a challenge. Glad I had expert help. Good luck with the rest of the job. Post some pix?
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