"Correct" battery is YUASA 12N9-3A. My battery rubber parts are rotten, I'll be making pads for under and on top of battery out of old inner tubes, there's just enough left of old ones to use as a pattern.
As for cleaning up brakes, plain ol' aerosol "brake cleaner" from auto supply did a pretty good job for me. Just don't get it on painted parts. Consider removing brake shoes and lubing everything with white lithium grease, also banging out wheel bearings and cleaning and repacking them while you're there. There's several posts here on this procedure. When Ed did mine he stuck a long rod down through farthest bearing, then beat on it at 90 degrees in several places all the way around, then pulled it out and banged on inner race with it. (I know some folks say not to do that but Ed sez they're plenty strong). With first bearing and spacer out he turned wheel over and banged out other side. You can use a proper sized socket and extension to beat on outside race on this one, and for putting them back in.
Glad to see yer still at it, enjoying your posts. Thanks, Lee
1962 Superhawk Restoration: Here I goThe top number are just my name a date scratched in. I imagine the shop put it aside for me before installing. The stamped number below are: "46262". I'll pull the battery out and see if it says the model number on the side for you.
Thanks for letting me know what kind of grease to use. Its really hard to keep up with the appropriate types of greases to use in different applications. I'm learning slowly, but the ol' "grease her up and throw her in" pointers always leave me wondering which TYPE of grease. I image improper use could lead to some nice problems. Thanks for the help everyone. Just an FYI for everyone. If you click on the image it will take you to Flickr where you can view the images high res. I did this for two reasons. 1. Its a terrible idea to post dozens of high res images within a thread, brutal on people's internet connections. 2. Uploading to Flickr and properly tagging will extend the usefulness and accessibility for anyone interested in these bikes, and some of the things they may come across working on them. Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/
How do you do set that up, seems like a good idea. thanks, Lee
Just an FYI for everyone. If you click on the image it will take you to Flickr where you can view the images high res. I did this for two reasons. 1. Its a terrible idea to post dozens of high res images within a thread, brutal on people's internet connections. 2. Uploading to Flickr and properly tagging will extend the usefulness and accessibility for anyone interested in these bikes, and some of the things they may come across working on them. [/quote] Check out the BBCode formating.
I paste the url to a 500px image, then add the image tags to it. I then add the url= tag around that and paste the link I want after the equal. Here a shot of what it looks like: 
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ Heres a shot comprised a few image to capture the tight space. This is where all the the work is carried out on the bike. Right now you can see that I'm painting. It's pretty messy right now, I like to run a tight ship. But this is also the look of progress. I like to call it "progmess". Make sure to view it larger by clicking on the image.
 After primering the crankcase once, there were a few spots that had imperfections. Small gouges that I wasn't able to notice when sanding down the JB Weld. I've added some spot putty to hopefully do the trick this time. It sure is hard to tell if you've gotten it all and the surface is perfectly smooth until the paint is on.  Here's how you deal with a can of primer that won't stop dribbling. It formed some sort of leak I couldn't get to stop fully.  I've got the starter all nice a primered up. I went to Ace Hardware and picked up a nice screw/washer/nut set to keep the commutator cover on nice and tight. This was a tricky little piece to get perfectly clean for painting. Alot of work when you don't have a sandblaster.  Having the styrofoam around is really useful for painting parts. I wasn't sure if I was just going to try and polish the bare metal before installing these, since no one will really see them, but I was painting everything else, and I WOULD KNOW that they were unpainted. So I went ahead and cleaned and prepped em, then threw on the first coat of primer.  Header joints with the first coat of enamel paint applied. Both the paint and primer used is heat resistant up to 500°F. If you care to remember, these things were pretty far gone the first time around.  I purchased a 2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner, which doesn't really seem to do anything. So I had nothing to loose by painting a few pieces to see how they came out. They were pretty messed up before. I partially suspect the ultrasonic cleaner isn't working well because of the generic detergent available at Harbor Freight where it was purchased. I'm hoping something more specialized for removing oil deposits on aluminum and steel will be fitting. Anyone have any experience working with these cleaners?  These parts have already had two coats of primer applied. It was now time for the enamel paint.  Step arm painted. I think it looks pretty nice with once coat. Might go over it again. The waiting a whole week in between coats is no fun.  The brake linkage was originally chromed. But years of wear had left the chrome rusted and pitting. I had nothing to loose by cleaning them up as best as possible, then repainting. It's not stock, but its a hell of alot better than before. Maybe in time I can have these re-chromed with a handful of other misc. items throughout the bike.  So after watching this video, I decided that I had to see what was in my front forks. I popped the screw out and nothing came out. I then had to pump the shocks to get the oil coming out. It seems pretty darn thick. I have no experience working with these I don't really know what to expect. The oil didn't seem too dirty, but again, I'm inexperienced and there isn't alot I want to assume. How does it look to you?  I was curious to get your opinions on how my sprockets look. If they look like they need to be replaced, now is the time I'd like to do it. Thoughts, opinions?   The oil pump is cleaned and put back together with a set of new gaskets. Right now the bike is resting on the jack, right where this is bolted in, so it'll have to wait till reassembly to see any action. For the time being, it must wait.  A shot of the bike jacked up and partially disassembled. 
Last edited by Spargett on Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:26 am, edited 2 times in total.
Current restoration: 1962 CB77
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1962_cb77_restore/ Sprockets look usable. A good way to check the chain is to adjust it with about one inch of up and down play, and then turn rear wheel, and keep checking up and down for tight / loose spots. If it varies a lot, the chain is probably shot. That looks like motor oil coming out of the forks! I'd recommend either 10 weight fork oil, or what I usually use in these old bikes is ATF. It is 10 weight hydraulic oil, just what the doctor ordered for these forks, and a lot cheaper than fork oil.
davomoto
huh? easy for you to say.
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